Kalbs Würste
"Veal Sausages"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Kalbs Würste
"Mageres Kalbfleisch und fettes Schweinfleisch hackt man zu gleichen Theilen zusammen, mit einer Handvoll Salbei, ein wenig Salz, Pfeffer und einigen Sardellen, dann stoßt man Alles in einem Mörser; wenn es gebraucht werden soll, rollt man es auf, um es zu braten, und mit gebackenen Brotschnitten oder auf einem Gemüse auf den Tisch zu geben."
English Translation
"Lean veal and fatty pork are chopped together in equal parts, with a handful of sage, a little salt, pepper, and some anchovies, then everything is pounded in a mortar; when needed, roll it up to roast, and serve with fried bread slices or on some vegetables."
Note on the Original Text
The original recipe is written in the concise, direct style typical of 19th-century cookery books, offering brief but practical instructions for cooks already familiar with kitchen basics. Precise measurements were rare, as cooks relied on instinct and experience—hence the description 'a handful of sage' and 'a little salt.' Spelling differences reflect the orthography of the day—'Kalbfleisch' for veal, 'Schweinfleisch' for pork, 'stoßt' for pounding, and so forth. Ingredients like 'Sardellen' refer to preserved anchovies, commonly used to enrich flavor during this period.
Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe hails from mid-19th-century Vienna, sourced from the famed cookery book of Marianka, the accomplished personal cook of Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen. Her cookbook, published in 1850, was aimed at both high society and more modest households, offering practical, tasty fare even during leaner times. Recipes like Kalbswürste reflect the Austrian and Bohemian tradition of stretching modest cuts of meat with flavorful herbs and economical ingredients like anchovies for a hint of umami. In a period marked by both culinary elegance and economic constraints, recipes were devised to suit varying budgets, making the best use of available resources and seasonal ingredients.
In the 1850s, all chopping was done by hand with a large, sharp knife or heavy cleaver. A mortar and pestle—usually made of stone or metal—was vital for pounding the meats and herbs into a fine paste. Rolling out the sausages would be done on a wooden board, and the sausages would then be roasted or pan-fried in a cast-iron pan or on a hearth. Bread would be sliced and fried in rendered fat for service. Today's kitchens might swap the mortar and pestle for a food processor and the open fire for a stovetop skillet.
Prep Time
25 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 lb 2 oz lean veal
- 1 lb 2 oz fatty pork belly
- 2 tbsp fresh sage, finely chopped
- 2–3 anchovy fillets (as a substitute for 'Sardellen')
- 1–2 tsp salt
- 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
- Fried or toasted bread slices and/or cooked vegetables for serving
Instructions
- To prepare Kalbswürste—or Veal Sausages—combine equal parts of lean veal and fatty pork, finely chopped or ground.
- For a home kitchen, use 1 lb 2 oz lean veal and 1 lb 2 oz fatty pork belly.
- Mince them together with about 2 tablespoons (one large handful) of fresh sage (chopped), 1–2 teaspoons salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste, and 2–3 anchovy fillets (finely chopped).
- Mash everything together thoroughly, either in a mortar and pestle as in the original, or in a food processor until a cohesive, sticky mixture forms.
- When ready to serve, form the meat mixture into thick rolls (about 2 1/2 inches in diameter), then roast or pan-fry them.
- Serve the sausages sliced, with toasted or fried bread slices, or on a bed of sautéed or stewed vegetables.
Estimated Calories
400 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the ingredients, mixing, and shaping the sausages takes about 25 minutes. Cooking the sausages by roasting or pan-frying takes about 20 minutes. Each serving contains roughly 400 calories, and the recipe makes 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
Join the Discussion
Rate This Recipe
Dietary Preference
Main Ingredients
Culinary Technique
Occasions
Den Bockfisch In Einer Fleisch Suppen Zu Kochen
This recipe hails from a German manuscript cookbook compiled in 1696, a time whe...
Die Grieß Nudlen Zumachen
This recipe comes from a rather mysterious manuscript cookbook, penned anonymous...
Ein Boudain
This recipe comes from an anonymous German-language manuscript cookbook from 169...
Ein Gesaltzen Citroni
This recipe, dating from 1696, comes from an extensive anonymous German cookbook...
Browse our complete collection of time-honored recipes