Geselchte Gans
"Smoked Goose"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Geselchte Gans
"Diese wird mit einem Strohwisch und heißem Wasser gereiniget, einige Stunden in kaltes Wasser gelegt, damit sie ausläuft, dann weich gekocht, und in zierlichen Stücken zu Grünspeisen (besonders zu Erbsen) gegeben."
English Translation
"This is cleaned with a bundle of straw and hot water, placed in cold water for several hours to draw out the juices, then cooked until tender, and served in delicate pieces with vegetables (especially peas)."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the succinct, instructional style common to 19th-century cookbooks: no precise measurements, no temperatures, and a reliance on assumed knowledge. Key steps, like soaking to 'auslaufen' (draw out excess salt), are given without timing, as expectations were for the cook to adjust based on experience and observation. Terms like 'zierlich' (dainty) refer to elegant serving sizes prized in refined households. Old German spelling, and a preference for brevity, reflect the conventions of the time.

Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe is drawn from an 1850 Viennese cookbook compiled by Marianka, the personal cook of Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen. Her book provides insight into both elite and humble tables of mid-19th-century Austria, emphasizing economy during hard times while retaining elegance and taste. The use of smoked goose speaks to preservation methods vital before refrigeration, and the recipe’s suggestion to add the flavorful meat to green vegetables, notably peas, offers a glimpse into seasonal and practical cooking in Central Europe. Such dishes would have brought both nutrition and luxury to the home.

Traditional preparation would have involved a straw bundle or whisk for scrubbing the cured bird, large wooden or enameled pots for soaking and boiling, and a sharp carving knife for cutting the cooked meat into decorative morsels. The entire process was typically handled over a wood or coal stove, with large slotted spoons or forks for maneuvering the bird.
Prep Time
8 hrs
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 smoked goose (4.5-6.5 lbs; if unavailable, use smoked duck or smoked turkey as a substitute)
- Plenty of hot water (for cleaning)
- Cold water (enough to submerge the goose for soaking)
- Fresh water (for simmering/cooking)
- Optional: green vegetables, especially peas (14-18 oz), for serving
Instructions
- To prepare 'Geselchte Gans' (Smoked Goose) in a modern kitchen, take a smoked goose (about 4.5-6.5 lbs), and scrub it thoroughly with a bunch of straw (or substitute with a clean brush) and hot water to remove any excess salt, soot, or impurities from the surface.
- Then place the goose in a large pot or container, cover with cold water, and let it soak for several hours—this helps to leach out excess salt and mellow the flavor.
- After soaking, drain, and place the goose into fresh water in a large pot.
- Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the goose is tender, which may take 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the size.
- Once cooked, cut the meat into dainty (small) pieces.
- These can be added to vegetable dishes—especially green peas—or served as a flavorful accent in other greens or stews.
Estimated Calories
400 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend some time cleaning and soaking the smoked goose before you start cooking it. The cooking itself takes about 1.5 to 2 hours until the goose is nice and tender. This recipe makes enough to serve about 8 people, with each serving providing around 400 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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