Eingemachte Kalbsbriefe

This recipe hails from the mid-19th century, sourced from 'Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen', a classic Viennese and Bohemian cookbook published in 1850. Marianka, the accomplished cook referenced in the title, crafted recipes that balanced the elegance of noble tables with the practicalities of middle-class households experiencing economic hardship in Austria. The focus here is on creating elegant but cost-effective dishes—transforming humble or overlooked ingredients like sweetbreads into a refined entrée, beloved especially in central European cuisine of the era. The use of rich broth, clarified or crayfish butter, and spices such as mace and lemon zest speaks to the sophisticated yet approachable aspirations of Biedermeier cookery.

Back in the 1850s, the preparation would have involved a cast iron or copper pot for simmering the sweetbreads in broth, a sharp knife for slicing, and a wide sauté pan (Reindl) for finishing the dish in butter. Other essential tools would include a wooden spoon, a sieve or cloth for straining the broth, and perhaps a mortar and pestle for grinding spices. Cooking was done over an open fire or wood-burning stove, so temperature control was achieved by moving pots to hotter or cooler spots on the range.