
Abgeschmalzte Bohnen
"Alle Gattungen Bohnen oder Fisolen kann man dazu verwenden. Am besten sind die frisch ausgelösten jungen Bohnen; alte und dürre müssen vor dem Kochen einige Zeit in Fluß- oder sonst nicht zu hartem Wasser eingeweicht werden, was auch bei den Erbsen nothwendig ist. Uebrigens werden sie ganz wie die Erbsen oder Linsen gesotten, wenig gesalzen, trocken abgeseiht, mit zerlassenem Speck oder Butter, auch mit kleinen zusammengeschnittenen Zwiebeln, Petersilie und Schalotten, Salz und Pfeffer flüchtig anpassirt, auf dem Feuer mehrere Male überschwungen, und warm angerichtet. Man kann sie auch einfach licht einbrennen, und dann gesäuert oder ungesäuert abschmalzen. Zu Belegen können alle zu Erbsen oder Linsen passenden Fleisch- oder Fischspeisen dienen."
English Translation
"All types of beans or string beans can be used for this dish. The best are freshly shelled young beans; old and dry ones must be soaked in river or otherwise not too hard water for some time before cooking, which is also necessary for peas. Otherwise, they are cooked just like peas or lentils, with little salt, drained dry, and briefly sautéed with melted bacon or butter, also with finely chopped onions, parsley, and shallots, salt and pepper, tossed several times over the fire, and served warm. You can also lightly brown them and then finish them with browned butter, with or without a touch of acidity. Any meat or fish dishes that go well with peas or lentils can be served as accompaniments."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the concise, almost conversational style typical of 19th-century German-language cookbooks. Quantities are largely undefined—assumed to be adjusted by the experienced household cook. Ingredient names and spellings reflect their time: 'Fisolen' for green or French beans, 'abschmalzen' meaning to finish a dish by tossing it in fat (usually butter or bacon fat). Past German spelling and phrasing, such as 'zusammengeschnittene' (finely chopped) and 'flüchtig anpassirt' (sautéed briefly), exemplify the cookbook's practical, hands-on approach.

Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe hails from mid-19th century Austria, specifically the renowned cookbook of Marianka, the personal cook to Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen. Her cookbook was a compendium of both elegant fare for high tables and hearty, economical everyday food for the middle classes during difficult economic times. 'Abgeschmalzte Bohnen' reflects the intersection of rustic home cooking and the evolving sophistication of middle-class kitchens around Vienna and Bohemia. Seasoned with modest but flavorful additions and adaptable to whatever beans were available, it demonstrates the thrifty and resourceful spirit of the mid-1800s household.

Historically, this dish would have been prepared in a heavy iron or copper pot for boiling the beans, and a sturdy, wide skillet or pan—likely also made of copper or iron—for the 'abschmelzen' or finish-frying with fat and aromatics. Basic kitchen knives, a wooden stirring paddle or spoon, and a sieve or colander for draining would all have been called into service, alongside a hearth or wood-fired stove.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 18 oz fresh green beans or shelled broad beans (or 9 oz dried beans/peas, soaked overnight)
- 1 medium onion (about 3.5 oz), finely chopped
- 1-2 shallots, finely chopped
- 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- 1.5 oz butter or 1.5 oz rendered pork fat (lard, or 4 strips streaky bacon, diced)
- Salt, to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- Optional: flour for a light roux (about 1 tbsp)
- Optional: 1 tsp white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
Instructions
- To make 'Abgeschmalzte Bohnen' in a modern kitchen, start by selecting young, fresh green beans (or shelled broad beans).
- If using dried or older beans, soak them in plenty of cold water for at least 8-12 hours, preferably overnight.
- This also applies if substituting with dried peas.
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the soaked or fresh beans, and cook them until just tender.
- Salt lightly during boiling.
- Once cooked, drain the beans well so they are fairly dry.
- In a wide skillet, melt a generous knob of butter or a few tablespoons of rendered pork fat (lard, or even bacon if desired).
- Add finely diced onion, shallot, and parsley, sautéing gently until fragrant and translucent.
- Add the drained beans to the fat and aromatics, season with salt and black pepper, and toss or stir over medium heat so the beans are well-coated and warm through.
- For extra flavor, you may finish by making a very light roux (flour stirred into the fat, not darkened), and optionally add a dash of vinegar if you like things a little tangy.
- Serve the beans hot, as a side dish.
- According to the original, you can pair them with any hearty meat or fish that you might serve with peas or lentils.
Estimated Calories
160 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to prepare the ingredients and 20 minutes to cook the beans and finish the dish. This recipe makes enough for 4 people as a side dish. Each serving has about 160 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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