A Todd Ham
From the treasured pages of Cooking in old Créole days. La cuisine créole à l'usage des petits ménages
Written by Célestine Eustis

A Todd Ham
"Soak forty-eight hours, changing water once or twice. Then put in cold water and let it come to a simmer (don't boil), and simmer slowly for four hours. Then skin and dress with sugar and cracker crumbs, and bake half an hour until well browned. -Mrs. Beale."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in telegraphic, instruction-heavy style, typical of early 20th-century cookbooks, assuming the cook knows quantities and details intuitively. Ingredient measurements are rarely specified—expecting readers to tailor to household size and circumstance. Spelling and phrasing ('skin and dress') are consistent with the era’s vernacular, where 'dressing' meant coating with a crust or topping. The recipe assumes salted, preserved ham and does not mention glazes, spices, or garnishes common today.

Title
Cooking in old Créole days. La cuisine créole à l'usage des petits ménages (1903)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Célestine Eustis
Era
1903
Publisher
R.H. Russell
Background
Take a delicious journey back in time with this charming bilingual collection of Creole and American recipes, crafted for cozy households. Célestine Eustis blends French flair with Southern soul, guiding both the novice and seasoned gourmand through the distinct flavors and delightful traditions of old Creole kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe hails from the early 20th century, as recorded in 'Cooking in old Créole days. La cuisine créole à l'usage des petits ménages' published in 1903, a compendium of Louisiana’s Creole culinary heritage. In these days, ham was typically home-cured with copious salt to ensure preservation in the absence of refrigeration, necessitating prolonged soaking before cooking. Creole kitchens blended French, African, Spanish, and Caribbean influences, yet the ham recipe itself reflects centuries-old European methods of preparing and dressing pork for festive occasions. Mrs. Beale's recipe maps directly onto these traditions: careful desalting, long simmering for tenderness, then a sweet-spiced crust to finish.

The ham would have been prepared in large iron or copper kettles for soaking and simmering, likely over a wood- or coal-fired stove. Cooks used sturdy forks, knives, and possibly a bread grater or rolling pin for the cracker crumbs. Baking would occur in a cast iron or brick oven, with roasting pans or heavy trays holding the dressed ham. Modern cooks can use any large stockpot, food-safe container for soaking, oven-safe roasting pan, and standard home oven.
Prep Time
1 hr
Cook Time
4 hrs 30 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole ham (approximately 9–11 lb, preferably bone-in, unsmoked or lightly smoked; if using modern ham, reduce soak time as needed)
- Cold water (for soaking and simmering, ample to cover the ham)
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar (white or brown)
- 1 cup finely crushed plain crackers or comparable dry breadcrumbs
Instructions
- Begin by soaking a whole ham (about 9–11 lb) in cold water for 48 hours, changing the water once or twice during this period to reduce excess salt—a common practice for salt-cured hams of the era.
- After soaking, place the ham in a large pot, cover fully with fresh cold water, and gradually heat until it reaches a gentle simmer (about 195°F).
- Maintain this low simmer for 4 hours; avoid boiling as it toughens the meat.
- Once simmered, carefully remove the ham, let cool briefly, and peel away the skin.
- Sprinkle the surface generously with sugar, then a layer of finely crushed cracker crumbs.
- Place ham in a roasting tin and bake in a preheated oven (375°F) for approximately 30 minutes, or until the coating is golden brown and crisp.
- Rest about 10 minutes before serving, sliced.
Estimated Calories
450 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Soak the ham for 48 hours, changing the water once or twice. Cooking takes about 4 hours on the stove and 30 minutes in the oven. Prep time is mostly for getting the ham ready and adding the coating. Each serving has about 450 calories, and this recipe serves 12 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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