So Make A Spanishe Creame
From the treasured pages of Cookery book of Ann Goodenough
Written by Ann Goodenough

So Make A Spanishe Creame
"take three or fower gallons of new milke and Set it over the fire then put in one pint of creame then take it of the fire and Stirr it and put it into three severall vessells as for clotted creame then Let it Stand one day and one night and one hower and halfe before you are to use it take of the creame with a Skimmer and take Sure let not much milke remaynd in itt then put it into an earthen pann and put to it as much hard Sugar as will Sweeten itt the night before; take one Spoonfull of rose water and take a litle muske and amber greace and bind it up in a litle peece of tiffany and put it into the rose water and tye it up close all night and then put it into the creame with the Suger then take a Silver Ladle and beat it but not to fast but continue beating it untill it come to the thicknesse that it will Stand in the dishe; then take the other creame that is lift and Lay it all over itt."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the terse, semi-phonetic style typical of early modern English manuscripts, with nonstandard capitalization, inconsistent spelling (e.g., 'milke', 'creame', 'howere'), and scant punctuation. Instructions proceed in narrative order, presuming the reader's familiarity with basic dairy processes like clotted cream making and manual infusion of flavors. Quantities and times are approximate, reflecting trust in the cook's judgment and experience rather than precise measurement.

Title
Cookery book of Ann Goodenough (1738)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Goodenough
Era
1738
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful journey into the kitchens of early 18th-century England, this collection captures the flair and flavors of its time with recipes crafted by the inventive Ann Goodenough. Expect a charming medley of hearty roasts, comforting pies, and time-honored confections, perfect for those wishing to dine as they did in Georgian days.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe for 'Spanish Cream' hails from the early 18th century, found in the household collection of Ann Goodenough, a woman active in England between 1700 and 1775. The dish is an example of Anglo-European culinary cross-pollination, evoking both Spanish and English dairy traditions such as clotted cream, but elevated with luxury flavorings like rosewater, musk, and ambergris—ingredients associated with affluence and refined taste at the time. Dishes like this were showpieces for aristocratic tables, combining advanced dairy techniques with fashionable scents and flavors. The process reflects the leisurely pacing of historic cream desserts, requiring time and patience more than complicated equipment.

In the 18th century kitchen, this dish would demand a large cauldron or pot for heating the milk, shallow ceramic basins for setting the cream, and earthenware or glass pans for mixing. Removal of the clotted cream would be performed using a long-handled skimmer. For flavoring, a square of fine silk (tiffany), muslin, or linen would be fashioned into a sachet to infuse musk and ambergris into rosewater. To whip or beat the cream, cooks used a silver or pewter ladle or a large wooden spoon—metal thought to keep the cream cool and avoid odd tastes. No mechanical beaters: all lightness was achieved by hand.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
16
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 12–17 quarts whole milk (freshest available)
- 2 cups (about 1 pint) heavy cream
- 2/3–3/4 cup caster sugar (to taste)
- 1 tablespoon rose water
- a pinch of ground musk (substitute: few drops vanilla extract or truffle oil)
- a pinch ambergris (substitute: citrus zest or omit)
- muslin or cheesecloth (for sachet)
- optional: additional clotted cream (from the process) for topping
Instructions
- Begin by heating 12–17 quarts of fresh whole milk until steaming, not boiling.
- Add in 2 cups (about 1 pint) heavy cream and stir gently.
- Take off the heat and divide into three large, shallow dishes (preferably ceramic or glass).
- Let these rest, uncovered, at room temperature for at least 24 hours and then chill for 1.5 hours before serving.
- When ready, skim off the clotted cream from the surface, ensuring you leave behind as much milk as possible.
- Place the skimmed cream into a ceramic or glass bowl.
- Add about 2/3–3/4 cup caster sugar (adjust to taste).
- The night before, infuse 1 tablespoon rosewater with a small sachet containing a pinch of ground musk and ambergris (or modern substitutes: vanilla or a drop of truffle oil for musk, citrus zest for ambergris) wrapped in muslin or clean cheesecloth, tying securely.
- Add this fragranced rosewater to the cream and sugar mixture.
- Using a wide whisk or large spoon, beat gently but steadily until the cream thickens enough to hold its shape in a serving dish.
- Finally, spread any remaining clotted cream from the other dishes as a soft layer over the whisked cream.
- Serve chilled.
Estimated Calories
530 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend about 20 minutes heating the milk and combining the ingredients, plus extra time to skim and whip the cream. Resting and chilling takes most of the time, but these steps do not require your attention. Each serving is rich due to the cream and sugar.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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