To Stew Venison
From the treasured pages of Various Cookeries
Unknown Author
To Stew Venison
"Take a side of venison and bone it and Lard it with Bacon and stuff it with forc'd meat underneath and so set it on the fire to stew put in some Onyon - some spice a bunch of sweet herbs and let it stew all together, squeese some Lemon in & let it stew 4 hours and put an anchovy or 2 in it and thick it up with flour & make forc'd meat balls"
Note on the Original Text
The style of this recipe is typical of handwritten culinary manuscripts of the late 1600s: concise, with assumed knowledge and little in the way of specific measurements or timings. Spelling and word forms (‘Onyon’ for onion, ‘forc’d meat’ for forcemeat, and ‘thick it up’ for thicken) reflect the fluid orthography of the era. The recipe combines imperative instructions in a flowing narrative, trusting the cook to interpret texture and doneness, rather than specifying exact times, temperatures, or quantities.
Title
Various Cookeries (1690)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1690
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century kitchens, this book brims with recipes, methods, and culinary wisdom passed down through generations, capturing the essence of historical gastronomy.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe originates from late 17th-century England, a period when venison was regarded as a luxury meat, often reserved for the tables of nobility or wealthy households. Stewing venison allowed cooks to tenderize tougher cuts while infusing them with fragrant spices and herbs, underscoring the English penchant for layered, savory flavors. The inclusion of anchovy and lemon highlights the period's love for rich umami notes, balanced with fresh acidity—a style adopted in elite kitchens. Such recipes were not just culinary instructions but also displayed social standing; the ability to procure venison and exotic spices indicated wealth and connections. The dish would have been an impressive centrepiece for a grand meal.
In the 17th century, this stew would have been cooked in a large, heavy iron pot or cauldron suspended over an open hearth or placed amidst hot coals. Larding tools (larding needles) were commonly employed to insert bacon strips into the venison for extra moistness and flavor. A sharp knife was essential for boning and cutting, and a mortar and pestle would grind the spices. For stirring and mixing, long wooden spoons were used. Forcemeat balls would have been shaped by hand and possibly simmered separately in a small pan before being added to the main pot.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
4 hrs 30 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 1/2 lbs boned venison (shoulder or side)
- 5 1/2 oz streaky bacon (or fatty bacon), cut into strips
- 7 oz minced beef or pork (for forcemeat)
- 2 oz breadcrumbs
- 1 egg
- 1 small bunch of fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme, parsley)
- 2 large onions, sliced
- 2 tsp mixed spices (pepper, cloves, mace—a modern substitute: 1 tsp mixed spice or a pinch of each)
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 2 anchovy fillets (substitute: 2 teaspoons anchovy paste)
- 2 tablespoons plain flour
- Salt, to taste
- 1 2/3 cups beef or chicken stock
- Additional butter or fat for poaching forcemeat balls
Instructions
- Begin by taking approximately 4 1/2 lbs of venison (a boned side or shoulder works well) and larding it with strips of streaky bacon, inserting them into small incisions across the meat.
- Prepare a simple forcemeat (a savory meat stuffing) using 7 oz minced beef or pork, 2 oz breadcrumbs, chopped herbs, and a beaten egg, and pack this underneath or around the deer.
- Place the venison in a large, heavy pot and add one or two large sliced onions, a bouquet garni of rosemary, thyme, and parsley, and a selection of whole or crushed spices such as black pepper, cloves, and mace.
- Pour enough water or mild stock to just cover the meat, then bring gently to a simmer.
- After an hour, squeeze in the juice of one lemon, and after three hours, add 2 finely chopped anchovy fillets.
- After the full four hours, thicken the stew with 2 tablespoons plain flour mixed with a little water to form a paste, stirring well to avoid lumps.
- Finally, form small balls from the remaining forcemeat, poach them in the simmering sauce for 10 minutes, and serve everything together hot.
Estimated Calories
500 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It usually takes about 30 minutes to get your ingredients ready and around 4.5 hours to cook the dish. The whole recipe can feed about 8 people, and each serving is estimated to have roughly 500 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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