To Coller Beef

This recipe hails from late 17th-century England, a time when preserving meat was both a culinary necessity and an art form. Collared beef was a popular preparation among households with access to larger cuts, making it a prized dish for feasts, celebrations, or simply for storability through the colder months. Salt and saltpetre not only preserved the beef but also lent the finished dish a characteristic flavor and rosy hue, important for both visual appeal and edibility in an era before modern refrigeration. The term 'collar' refers to the practice of rolling and binding the beef into a tight bundle, imitating the collar of a garment.

The original recipe would have been executed with a copper stew dish—an expensive and durable pan common in well-to-do kitchens. Households used strong sewing thread or twine to hold the beef's shape, and broad fabric filleting strips for extra security in rolling. A large pott (pot) was needed to accommodate the meat, and a cloth (likely linen or muslin) helped keep the brisket clean and compact during its long simmering or baking in the oven. The oven’s residual heat, after bread baking, provided a low, steady temperature ideal for gently cooking the meat overnight.