To Carbonado Tongues
From the treasured pages of Various Cookeries
Unknown Author

To Carbonado Tongues
"Your Tongue must be boyl'd and blanch'd, - Cut it into two thin pieces crossway on the inside put it into your Broth again to keep warm till - your stuff be ready, then take Eight Eggs and a little Cream, beat them together, put in some Lemon=slices and Nutmeggs then beat all together and fry your Tongue and put all these into your frying-pan to your Tongues and fry all till it run to a Curd, then dish your Tongue and stuff upon it, and serve it up with slices of Lemon."
Note on the Original Text
The original recipe is written in fluid, conversational prose, lacking exact timings, temperatures, or measurements—a hallmark of early modern cookbooks that assumed a certain level of kitchen knowledge. Period spellings like 'boyl’d' (boiled), 'blanch’d' (blanched), and 'nutmeggs' (nutmegs) are typical. Directions such as 'till it run to a Curd' refer to cooking until eggs have just set, not necessarily a modern curd. Clarity and brevity stemmed from writing for experienced cooks in a household kitchen, not novices—hence the imprecision and expectation of culinary intuition.

Title
Various Cookeries (1690)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1690
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century kitchens, this book brims with recipes, methods, and culinary wisdom passed down through generations, capturing the essence of historical gastronomy.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from the late 17th century, a time when extravagant, richly seasoned dishes were in vogue among the English upper classes. The term 'carbonado' referred to cutting and scoring meat, often to grill or fry over coals, a popular technique in the period. The addition of eggs, cream, and exotic spices like nutmeg reflects status and access to imported goods during the Restoration era. Recipes were often designed both for flavor and as feasts for the eyes, with garnishes such as lemon slices offering brightness and color on the table. This dish would have been at home at a well-to-do household's supper, drawing on both continental European influences and traditional English tastes of the time.

Back in the late 1600s, the cook would have used a large cauldron or copper pot to boil the tongue over an open hearth. Once prepared, a sharp knife would be used to slice the tongue, and a coarse cloth might help with blanching and handling it. Frying would have taken place in a heavy wrought iron or brass frying pan, possibly over coals or a wood fire. Whisks were not common, so eggs and cream might be beaten with a fork, a bundle of twigs, or even clean hands. Serving would be on pewter or ceramic dishes, with a sharp knife for slicing garnish.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs 10 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 beef tongue (2.2-3.3 lbs)
- Water (for boiling)
- Salt, to taste
- 8 large eggs
- 1/3 cup heavy cream
- 1 lemon (zest and thin slices)
- 1/4 teaspoon ground or freshly grated nutmeg
- 1/2 tablespoon butter
Instructions
- Begin by simmering a beef tongue (approximately 2.2-3.3 lbs) in lightly salted water for about 2 hours, or until tender.
- Remove the tongue, peel off the outer skin, and let it cool slightly.
- Slice the tongue into two thin crosswise pieces, focusing on the more tender inside.
- Return the slices to the warm broth to keep them from drying out.
- For the stuffing, whisk together 8 large eggs and about 1/3 cup heavy cream.
- Add the zest and a few thin slices of one lemon, and season with a generous pinch (about 1/4 teaspoon) of freshly grated or ground nutmeg.
- Heat a large nonstick frying pan over medium heat; add a small knob (about 1/2 tablespoon) of butter.
- Place the tongue slices in the pan and pour the egg and cream mixture over them.
- Fry together, gently stirring, until the mixture curdles softly, resembling a scramble.
- Plate the tongue with the creamy egg 'stuff' on top, and garnish with additional lemon slices.
- Serve immediately.
Estimated Calories
370 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Simmer the beef tongue for about 2 hours until it’s tender, then peel and slice it. While the tongue keeps warm, quickly prepare the creamy eggs and finish the dish in about 10 minutes. Combined, this recipe takes just over 2 hours to make from start to finish. With this amount of meat and eggs, you get about 6 generous servings, with each serving having an estimated 370 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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