To Boyle A Storyon
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Susanna Packe
Written by Susanna Packe

To Boyle A Storyon
"Take strong Beare & water a like quantity put in 3 or 4 handfulls of salt then fitt your storyon in lieving it up in Lard & youls Ready then let your Liquor Boyle as fast as it is possible= Then put in your fish & let it Boyle 3 or 4 houors, when you perceaue it enough Take it up By leying peece By peece, Then mixe som salt and viniger to gaither & sprinckell it all over, Then with 3 quarts of viniger or 4 according to the Bigness of the fish with 2 gallons of whit wine or 6 quarts to the same Liquor it was Boyld in make a pickell when it is could & put it in & stop it close. The Last storyon taken in Scullion water 1672 was thus = picklid, som add hearbs But ye is not so usuall, you may doe as occasion sarues -- proved"
Note on the Original Text
Early modern recipes were written as practical memoranda for household cooks already familiar with basic technique and local ingredients. Instructions were often vague, omitting precise quantities or times—thus the recipe says 'handfulls' of salt and '3 or 4 houors' of boiling, trusting the cook's intuition and familiarity. Spellings were not standardized ('Boyle' for 'boil,' 'storyon' for 'sturgeon,' 'youls' likely a misreading of 'should' or 'oils') and punctuation was scarce. The result is a charming but challenging blend of practical advice and culinary freedom, ripe for modern reinterpretation.

Title
Cookbook of Susanna Packe (1674)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Susanna Packe
Era
1674
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful culinary treasure from the 17th century, this book offers a charming glimpse into the flavors and techniques that graced English kitchens in Susanna Packe's time, promising a feast of history and taste for any food enthusiast.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from late 17th-century England, written by Susanna Packe in 1674, a period when both preservation and elaborate presentations were prized in aristocratic and gentry households. Sturgeon, a coveted delicacy, appeared as both a luxury and a showpiece for great feasts, and preserving it in an acidic pickle was a way to extend its enjoyment, particularly before refrigeration. The mention of 'Scullion water 1672' refers to a notable catch in the household, hinting that this method was esteemed and perhaps reserved for special occasions. Beer and wine in the cooking liquid added both flavor and helped preserve the fish.

In the late 1600s, cooks would use large copper or cast iron kettles set over open hearths or built-in kitchen ranges to boil the fish, with long wooden ladles or forks for removing the delicate pieces. For the pickling stage, deep glazed earthenware jars or wooden barrels (well-scrubbed) were common, and vinegar was measured in quarts and gallons using pewter or earthenware jugs. Cooking was labor-intensive, with much attention paid to boiling temperature and timing, all judged by sight, feel, and practical experience.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
4 hrs
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 quarts strong beer (or dark ale)
- 2 quarts water
- 3–3.5 ounces coarse sea salt (plus extra for finishing)
- 1 whole sturgeon (or substitute with 4–6 lbs monkfish or firm white fish)
- 7 ounces pork fat or lard strips (for larding, optional if using fatty fish)
- 3–4 quarts white wine vinegar
- 8–12 quarts dry white wine
- Optional: fresh herb sprigs (dill, parsley, bay leaf)
Instructions
- Begin by combining equal parts of strong beer and water in a large stockpot—use about 2 quarts each.
- Add 3 or 4 generous handfuls (about 3–3.5 ounces) of sea salt to the liquid.
- Prepare your sturgeon (or use monkfish if unavailable) by trimming and larding it, which means inserting strips of fat (use pork fat or similiar) into the fish to prevent drying out.
- Boil the beer, water, and salt mixture vigorously.
- Once boiling, carefully add the prepared fish.
- Reduce the heat so it continues to simmer gently and poach the fish for 3–4 hours, depending on the size—it should be fully cooked and tender.
- When done, lift out the peces of fish gently.
- While still warm, mix a small amount (about 2–3 teaspoons) of salt with some vinegar (white wine vinegar works), and sprinkle all over the fish pieces.
- For the pickle, blend 3–4 quarts of vinegar with 8–12 quarts of white wine, adjusting quantities for the amount of fish, and add this to the liquor used for boiling.
- Let the pickling liquid cool completely, then submerge the cooked fish.
- Seal tightly in a non-reactive container.
- Optionally, you may add herbs to the pickle, such as dill or parsley, but this was less common historically.
Estimated Calories
320 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the fish and ingredients should take around 30 minutes. The fish needs to gently simmer for about 3–4 hours until fully cooked and tender. Each serving has about 320 calories, based on using monkfish and a moderate amount of lard. This recipe makes about 10 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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