To Make A Rice Florandine
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso
Written by Mary Cruso

To Make A Rice Florandine
"Take a qvarter of a pound of rice wash it pick it boile it in milk cover it up to swell then put to it some Creame and butterr nutmegg and Cinnamon a little salt 3 eggs one white a glass of Sack another of Rose water and sweeten it to your tast beat it well together bake it in a dish with puffe past under it and over it"
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like many of its contemporaries, is written in a conversational, somewhat terse style. Quantities are often loosely stated, with terms like 'a quarter of a pound' or 'a glass', relying on the reader's knowledge and intuition. Instructional details are brief—assumed rather than specified, because the audience was expected to understand basic methods, such as how to line a dish with puff paste or 'boil rice to swell.' Spelling and capitalization reflect Early Modern English conventions: 'Creame,' 'nutmegg,' 'puffe past.' Terms like 'sack' denote sweet sherry, while 'rose water' would have been distilled at home or purchased from an apothecary. The eggs ('3 eggs one white') are interpreted as two whole eggs and one white, a common 17th-century enrichment technique.

Title
Cookbook of Mary Cruso and Timothy Cruso (1689)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Cruso
Era
1689
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the flavorful world of 17th-century cuisine with Mary Cruso’s delightful collection, where time-honored recipes and inventive cookery tips offer a peek at the tastes and talents of yesteryear’s domestic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe for 'Rice Florandine' hails from the late 17th century and is attributed to Mary Cruso, who was active in 1689. The original sources such as these were often handwritten by women for home kitchens and circulated among family networks. This sweet, fragrant pudding speaks to the growing popularity of rice and exotic flavorings like rose water and sack (a type of fortified wine), reflecting trade developments of the time. The dish itself bridges the world between medieval rice pottages and the modern rice pudding or baked custard, incorporating the buttery, flaky puff pastry that marked more refined, festive puddings of the upper middle class or gentry households.

In Mary Cruso's time, rice florandine would have been prepared using a heavy brass or iron pot for boiling the rice in milk, a wooden spoon for stirring, and a large bowl for mixing the beaten eggs, cream, and flavorings. Pastry would be rolled on a wooden board using a rolling pin, and everything assembled in an earthenware or tin-glazed ceramic baking dish. The dish would then be baked in a wood-fired oven, with careful turning to get an even bake, or possibly beneath a baking 'coffin' (a lid heaped with hot embers), depending on available hearth facilities.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 oz white rice
- 1 2/3 cups whole milk
- 1/3 cup double cream
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
- 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
- Pinch of salt
- 2 whole eggs
- 1 egg white
- 2 1/4 tbsp sweet sherry (to replace sack)
- 2 1/4 tbsp rose water
- 3–4 tbsp caster sugar, to taste
- 1 sheet (about 9 oz) puff pastry
Instructions
- Begin by taking 4 oz of white rice and rinse it thoroughly.
- Pick over to remove any impurities, then simmer gently in about 1 2/3 cups of whole milk, covered, until the rice is tender and has absorbed most of the liquid.
- Once the mixture is creamy, stir in 1/3 cup of double cream and 2 tbsp unsalted butter, allowing the butter to melt in gently.
- Season with 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, and a pinch of salt.
- Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool slightly.
- In a separate bowl, whisk 2 whole eggs and 1 egg white together.
- Add 2 1/4 tbsp sweet sherry (as a substitute for sack), 2 1/4 tbsp rose water, and sugar to taste (about 3–4 tbsp, depending on preference).
- Beat this egg mixture into the cooled rice mixture until well combined and homogeneous.
- Line a medium baking dish (about 8 inches round or square) with a layer of puff pastry, pressing it into the corners.
- Pour the rice mixture in, smoothing the top, then cover with another thin layer of puff pastry if desired.
- Bake at 350°F (fan 320°F) for about 35-40 minutes or until set and golden.
- Serve warm or at room temperature.
Estimated Calories
420 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 20 minutes to prepare the ingredients and about 1 hour to cook and assemble the rice pudding pie. Each serving contains an estimated 420 calories, and the whole recipe makes 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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