To Pott Salmon

This recipe hails from the handwritten collection of Jane Dawson, a 17th-century Englishwoman, penned in the late 1600s—a time when preserving fish and meat was vital before the advent of reliable refrigeration. Potted salmon was a luxurious treat, prepared in country and upper-class urban households as both a practical method of food preservation and a delicious dish to have at hand for special occasions. The method relies on salt, spices, and copious butter to safely store the fish for several weeks or more. Women like Jane Dawson would have overseen household management, including preparing such preserved foods for family and guests. The flavors—peppery, herbal, and warmly spiced—reflect the availability of imported spices and aromatic herbs in England at the time.

In Jane Dawson’s day, fish would be scaled and cleaned using a knife or scraper, then rubbed and layered into large ceramic or stoneware pots (often called "pott" or "pottings"). Butter would be churned at home and used as the primary fat for cooking and preserving. The pot was sealed and baked in a wood-fired brick oven or hearth, monitored by experienced hands. After baking, the contents were stored in cool pantries, with the butter forming a protective seal to exclude air and bacteria. Modern cooks use casserole dishes, ovens with thermostatic control, and preserving jars.