How To Coller A Brest Of Veale
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Jane Dawson
Written by Jane Dawson

How To Coller A Brest Of Veale
"Take a Brest of Veale & bone it; Then Make a handfull of Sage; minch it very Small with one pencey worth of cloues & mace pounded very Small; a litle Salt Sprinkle these all over ye veale Then Roule ye veale vp close as you would doe with Inkell; Then poure the pickell take half Small beare & half water to the quantity that will couer your coller; a pinte of white wine vinegar; half a handfull of Salt; half a handfull of Spear mint & fennell; a pencey worth of Tamacoe peper, let yr pickell boyle Then put in your Veale; it will take an houer & half boyleing; Then take yr Coller out and let it be cold, Then power the licquor into an Earthen pan bigg Enough for yr Coller Then put you Coller into it, it will Keepe good a forth night in the licquor foe you may Doe; Beg or Eles"
Note on the Original Text
The language is practical and direct, favoring brevity and intuition—details like exact times or temperatures are rare, as cooks were expected to know these things. Spellings of the day are phonetic and variable (e.g., 'Coller' for 'collar,' 'veale' for 'veal,' 'pickell' for 'pickle'). Measurements such as 'a pencey worth' represent the amount a penny could buy, and 'handfulls' are measured by sight, not by weight. The recipe also uses the second person ('you'), emphasizing the personal, hands-on nature of historical cookery.

Title
Cookbook of Jane Dawson (1690)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Jane Dawson
Era
1690
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century English kitchens, Jane Dawson's recipe collection is a flavorful tapestry of sweet delicacies and savory dishes, revealing the tastes and ingenuity of bygone home cooks.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe is from the late 1600s, found in Jane Dawson's manuscript. Collaring meats was a popular preservation method before refrigeration, involving rolling, spicing, and simmering in a pickling liquor. The breast of veal—once an inexpensive and prized cut—was transformed into a delicacy that could be kept for days, and served in slices. At the time, sage and other strong herbs both flavored and preserved the meat. The use of 'small beer' (a weak, everyday ale) and vinegar for pickling reflects how important layered preservation was before modern technology.

Historically, cooks would have used a large, heavy knife for boning, and a wooden chopping board. Chopping herbs and pounding spices was done with a simple knife and mortar and pestle. The rolled veal was tied with strong thread or tape (‘inkell’). Boiling was done over an open hearth in large copper or iron pots. Storage would have been in glazed earthenware pans or deep wooden troughs, covered with clean cloths or tied bladders.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 breast of veal (approximately 4 1/2 lbs), boned
- 3/4 oz fresh sage, finely chopped
- 1/32 oz (about 1/4 tsp) cloves, ground
- 1/32 oz (about 1/4 tsp) mace, ground
- 1/6 oz (1 tsp) salt (plus more for the brine)
- 1 quart small beer (substitute with low-alcohol pale ale or very light beer)
- 1 quart water
- 2 cups white wine vinegar
- 1/2 oz (1 tbsp) salt
- 1/3 oz fresh spearmint
- 1/3 oz fresh fennel fronds
- 1/32 oz (about 1/4 tsp) cayenne pepper or black pepper (substitute for 'Tamacoe peper')
Instructions
- Begin by taking a whole veal breast (about 4 1/2 lbs) and carefully bone it, keeping the meat in one piece.
- Finely chop a large handful (about 3/4 oz) of fresh sage.
- Crush together 1/32 oz (about 1/4 tsp) each of cloves and mace until fine, and mix with 1 teaspoon (1/6 oz) salt.
- Sprinkle this mixture, along with the sage, evenly over the inner side of the veal.
- Roll up the veal tightly, securing with kitchen string much like rolling a roulade.
- Make a brine ('pickell') using equal parts (about 1 quart each) of low-alcohol ale (small beer, or substitute with low-alcohol pale ale) and water.
- Add 2 cups white wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon (1/2 oz) salt, half a handful (about 1/3 oz) each of fresh spearmint and fennel fronds, and 1/32 oz (about 1/4 tsp) of cayenne pepper (as a modern alternative to 'Tamacoe peper').
- Bring the brine to a boil in a large pot, then gently add the rolled veal and simmer for 1.5 hours.
- Remove the veal and let it cool.
- Place into a ceramic or glass dish just large enough to hold it, pour the strained brine over to cover, and chill.
- This will keep for up to two weeks in the brine in the refrigerator.
Estimated Calories
170 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 20 minutes to prepare and roll the veal, plus 1.5 hours to cook it gently in the brine. One serving is around 170 calories, based on the typical amount of veal used and the lean cooking method. This recipe makes about 8 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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