Soup Maigre

This recipe was penned by Elizabeth Langley in 1757, in an England on the cusp of great social and culinary change. 'Soup maigre' hails from a tradition of lean, meatless soups favored by both the modest classes observing religious fasts and upwardly mobile households intrigued by French cuisine. It reflects the era's focus on vegetable-forward, butter-rich cookery for those eschewing meat—either by choice or circumstance. The recipe also mirrors the influence of French culinary fashions on English kitchens in the mid-18th century, with its medley of garden greens, slow stewing, and elegant balance. The presence of ingredients like chervil and the bouquet of sweet herbs indicates a cosmopolitan palate and access to well-tended kitchen gardens.

In the mid-1700s, this soup would have been prepared in a sturdy stewpan, likely made of copper or cast iron, set over a low hearth fire. Once the butter melted and the vegetables were in, a heavy, well-fitting lid would help capture steam and flavor as the greens softened. Water would be heated in a separate kettle, then poured in as required. Cooks would make use of a wooden spoon for stirring, and a ladle for serving. Bunches of herbs were tied with string for easy removal after imparting their fragrance, and the soup itself would be ladled straight from the pot into deep bowls or tureens for serving on the household's main table.