To Stew Mutton

This recipe hails from the late 17th century, specifically from the hand of Elizabeth Fowler, who was active in 1684. At this time, English households with means were experimenting with stews and other wet-cooked dishes, influenced by both native and Continental culinary trends. Dishes of mutton were common, and the inclusion of sharp flavors—vinegar, anchovies, capers—reflects the period's taste for piquancy and herbal notes, resulting in layered, aromatic flavors. This recipe would have made for a comforting yet seasoned centerpiece in a genteel household. The society of the time prized fresh herbs, and the presence of samphire—a succulent coastal plant—signifies the status and seasonality, as it was foraged from the seashore and highly valued. The dish gives a delightful glimpse into both the ingredient repertoire and palate of late Restoration-era England.

Cooks in the 1680s would have prepared this stew in a large cast iron or copper pot set over an open hearth fire. A long wooden spoon for stirring, a sharp knife for slicing the mutton and vegetables, and linen or muslin to tie up the herbs (a 'herb bundle' or bouquet) would complete the basic toolkit. Serving would have been done in individual small cups or bowls known as 'sippots' or in a central bowl for sharing, possibly with ornate garnishes displayed artistically atop the dish.