How To Make A Tansy

This delightful 17th-century recipe—the Tansy—comes from the manuscript of Elizabeth Fowler, dated 1684. Dishes called 'tansy' were traditional Lenten fare in England, their bright green color and bitter herbal notes a nod to spring renewal and cleansing. Tansy, the herb, was once widely used for both flavor and supposed health benefits, especially at Easter after months of winter fare and fasting. The inclusion of young wheat (or later, spinach) reflects the seasonal cycles of what was available in the early spring kitchen. Elizabeth Fowler’s handwritten collection captures English gentry household cooking in Restoration England, with its blend of practicality, herbal lore, and evolving culinary sophistication.

In a late-17th-century kitchen, this Tansy would have been prepared using a large earthenware or pewter mixing bowl and a wooden whisk or beater to thoroughly combine the eggs and cream. The greens and herbs would have been chopped finely with a small knife or herb chopper. The mixture was fried in a heavy skillet (likely cast iron or copper, lined with tin) over an open hearth fire, managed either on a trivet or by suspending the pan over hot coals. Lemons and oranges were treasured imports and would be sliced thinly with care, and sugar, still a prized commodity, would be pounded from cones and dusted atop the finished dish.