To Make A Trigafy
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading
Written by Ann Smith
To Make A Trigafy
"Tak² yo³ Chiecons & Cutt them in picedifs then wash them in Severall waters till the water be Cloard then Lett them Draine then take about ½ lb of Butter. & putt yo³ Chiecons in the fryding pann woh²n yo³ Butter. is almost melted Then putt into it A slice of Bacon Cut with Cloaves Butter. in Cum³ & marjorum & Sav³y of each A Litle Sprigg or 2, 2 Bay Leaves tyd them togdther & putt them into yo³ pann one whole onion and A Little joice of Lemmon & Salt then Let it Boyl all togdth² in yo³ Butter. till yo³ Butter. beginn² to be Oyldy then fill up yo³ pann with Strong Broath & Sod Lett it all Boyld till yo³ meat be tender"
Note on the Original Text
Seventeenth-century recipes were written as practical guides for experienced cooks, not for novices. There were no precise measurements or temperatures—instead, expected knowledge filled the gaps. Spellings varied (e.g., 'Chiecons' for chickens, 'Butt²' for butter), often reflecting regional dialects or the writer's whim. Repetitions of superscript symbols (like 'yo³' for 'your', 'woh²n' for 'when') are shorthand scribbles, and periods or capitalizations are inconsistent. Because spelling was not standardized, and cooks relied on intuition, modern adaptations require interpretation and standardization for clarity.
Title
Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading (1698)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Smith
Era
1698
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the sumptuous kitchens of 17th-century England with Ann Smith’s culinary treasury, where traditional recipes and time-honored techniques invite you to savor the flavors of history. Each page promises a feast of inspiration and a glimpse into the artful dining of a bygone era.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from the late 17th century English manuscript cookbook of Ann Smith, dated 1698. At the time, English cooks were pulling together influences from both traditional British and continental European cuisines, exploring new herbs and spices as global trade increased. Recipes like this 'Trigafy' showcase the rich, buttery, and herb-laden sauces beloved in post-Restoration England, at a time when kitchen technology was basic but flavors were bold. Dishes like this would have graced the tables of both the rural gentry and wealthy merchants, merging rustic ingredients like chicken and bacon with the growing trend for aromatic herbs and a French-inspired, broth-enriched sauce.
Cooks of the period would have used a large iron or brass frying pan—or a shallow stewpan—placed over an open hearth or on a trivet above hot embers. A sharp kitchen knife and wooden board were needed to joint the chicken, with a mortar and pestle for spices, and perhaps linen or muslin for straining if required. Herbs were tied with string for easy removal post-cooking. There were no thermometers, so doneness was judged by sight, touch, and experience.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
1 hr
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 whole chickens (~4 1/2 lbs), cut into portions
- 1/2 lb (8 oz) unsalted butter
- 2 oz thick-cut bacon, sliced
- 3-4 whole cloves
- 1 small bunch fresh marjoram (1-2 sprigs)
- 1 small bunch fresh savory (or substitute thyme, 1-2 sprigs)
- 1 small bunch fresh cumin greens (or use 1 tsp ground cumin)
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 whole onion, peeled
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 3 cups strong chicken or beef broth
- Salt, to taste
Instructions
- Begin by taking two whole chickens (~4 1/2 lbs total), cutting them into pieces, and washing them thoroughly in several changes of water until the water runs clear.
- Drain the chicken well.
- Melt about 1/2 pound (8 oz) of butter in a large frying pan, then add the chicken pieces when the butter is nearly melted.
- Add a thick slice (~2 oz) of bacon, cut up, along with a few whole cloves (spice).
- Toss in a sprig each of cumin, marjoram, and savory, tying them together with kitchen twine for ease of removal, as well as two bay leaves.
- Add one whole peeled onion, the juice of half a lemon, and some salt to taste.
- Fry evrything gently until the butter starts to look a little oily (meaning the water content has evaporated), then pour in enough rich chicken or beef broth (about 3 cups, or enough to cover the meat) to cover the chicken.
- Simmer until the chiken is cooked through and tender, then serve hot.
Estimated Calories
600 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cutting the chickens takes about 20 minutes. Cooking everything together takes around 1 hour, including frying and simmering. Each serving has about 600 calories. This recipe makes 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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