To Make A Fresh Cheeſe
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading
Written by Ann Smith
To Make A Fresh Cheeſe
"Take ond pinte of Cream & sett it on the fiere & take 9 eggs the whites of you the juce of ond Lemon. Beated them togather, when your Cream is boyl’d up poured them in & keep them Stirring till it comes to A Curd & then putt it into A Straining Cloath & hang it up for an houre, then take it & putt it in A Honey mortar & Stamp it sweetly it with Sugar or Roſe water or Orange Flower. water you may putt in Borage or maſe if you will."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the characteristic style of late 17th-century English household manuscripts: a list of actions in continuous prose, minimal punctuation, and with measurements and quantities given according to convention rather than standardization. For example, 'ond pinte' would mean 'one pint'; 'egg whites of you' likely is a miscopy and the recipe intends you to use all eggs (as context and texture suggest). Unusual spellings such as 'fiere' (fire), 'boyl’d' (boiled), 'curd', and 'Straining Cloath' are typical of the semi-phonetic, variable spelling of the era. Instructions are practical and assume the cook is familiar with processes like hanging a draining cloth and using floral waters, reflecting a domestic environment in which such skills were routine.
Title
Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading (1698)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Smith
Era
1698
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the sumptuous kitchens of 17th-century England with Ann Smith’s culinary treasury, where traditional recipes and time-honored techniques invite you to savor the flavors of history. Each page promises a feast of inspiration and a glimpse into the artful dining of a bygone era.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from Ann Smith, a woman active in 1698, and is recorded in a manuscript known as 'V.a.434'. During the late 17th century in England, houses with even a modest kitchen were familiar with cheesemaking, but this recipe is for a delicate 'fresh cheese,' somewhat akin to a sweet ricotta or paneer, and intended for immediate enjoyment rather than long-term storage. The addition of floral waters and spices like rosewater, orange flower water, borage, and mace is distinctly fashionable for the period, reflecting both the influence of continental European cuisine and an enthusiasm for refining country produce into elegant fare for the table.
In 1698, this cheese was cooked over a wood- or coal-fired hearth in a sturdy pan or small cauldron. Eggs and cream were likely beaten with a wooden spoon or simple whisk, and curds were separated with a linen or muslin cloth, then hung from a hook or peg to drain. After draining, a marble or brass mortar and pestle would have been ideal for pounding the curds with sugar and aromatics to a smooth, luxurious paste. Today, a heavy-bottomed saucepan, fine sieve or colander, cheesecloth, and a stand mixer or sturdy bowl and spoon for mixing are all that is needed.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
10 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 cups double (heavy) cream
- 9 large eggs
- juice of 1 lemon (approx. 2–3 tbsp)
- 1/4 – 1/2 cup caster sugar (to taste)
- 1–2 tbsp rosewater or orange flower water (optional)
- fresh borage leaves, finely chopped (optional, or substitute with another mild edible flower/herb)
- a pinch of ground mace (optional)
- muslin or cheesecloth
Instructions
- To recreate this fresh cheese, start by gently heating 2 cups of double (heavy) cream in a saucepan until it just comes to a boil.
- Meanwhile, in a bowl, lightly beat 9 large eggs, using all the whites and yolks, and add in the freshly squeezed juice from 1 lemon.
- When the cream is boiling, remove from heat and slowly pour in the egg-lemon mixture, stirring continuously.
- Return the mixture to a low heat and keep stirring until it thickens and curds form—this should only take a few minutes.
- Pour the curds into a muslin cloth or fine cheesecloth fitted over a colander, tie into a bundle, and hang it (or simply let it drain) for 1 hour.
- Once drained, transfer the curds to a bowl or mortar and pestle, and pound or mix them until smooth, sweetening to taste with sugar, rosewater, or orange flower water.
- Optionally, add chopped fresh borage leaves or a pinch of ground mace for extra historical flavor.
Estimated Calories
280 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to prepare and beat the ingredients. Cooking and curdling the cheese takes about 10 minutes. After this, you will need to let it drain for 1 hour before finishing with flavorings. Each serving is about 280 calories, and this recipe makes 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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