Calfs Head
From the treasured pages of Cookbook
Unknown Author
Calfs Head
"Half boil it, cut it in thin slices, put in a stewing pan with some broth, mace, nutmeg, a sprig of thyme, a whole onion, one eggs yoke beat up with white wine, let it stew till it be tender, put in half a pint of white wine and serve it up."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the terse, practical style of the early 18th century—direct, with an assumption of prior culinary knowledge. Instructions lack precise quantities, reflecting both the cook’s experience and the variability of available ingredients. Spelling such as 'eggs yoke' for 'egg yolk' and 'Calfs head' for 'calf’s head' was common; consistency in terminology and precise measurements were not yet standard practice. The instruction to 'half boil' is equivalent to parboiling today. Overall, the recipe trusts the cook to rely on intuition and customary methods.
Title
Cookbook (1706)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1706
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step back to the early 18th century with this charming culinary collection, brimming with period recipes that tantalize the tastebuds and offer a delicious glimpse into historic kitchens.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe hails from around 1706, a time when using the entire animal was both practical and esteemed in British cookery. Calf’s head was considered a delicacy, prized not just for thrift but for its rich, gelatinous quality. Dishes like this would have been served at both grand tables and more modest homes, showcasing contemporary tastes for aromatic spices such as mace and nutmeg—a legacy of Britain’s growing involvement in global trade. The inclusion of white wine and egg yolk speaks to French culinary influence during the early 18th century.
A large cauldron, stew pot, or ‘stewing pan’ would have been set over an open hearth or on a trivet near the fire. Cutting was done with heavy knives suited for meat and bone. Small wooden spoons or ladles were used to combine and mix ingredients, while earthenware or tin-glazed pottery was used for serving. Strainers made of cloth or fine mesh might have helped clarify sauces when needed, but this particular method relies on simplicity, letting ingredients meld together during a gentle stew.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 15 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 calf’s head (substitute: 1 3/4–2 1/4 lbs veal cheeks and beef tongue)
- 2 cups beef or veal broth
- a pinch of ground mace (about 1/8 tsp)
- 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
- 1 sprig fresh thyme
- 1 whole onion, peeled
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 1/3 cups dry white wine (1/4 cup for egg mixture, 1 cup added at end)
- Salt and black pepper to taste (optional, modern addition)
Instructions
- Begin by simmering a calf’s head (or if unavailable, a combination of veal cheeks and beef tongue) in a large pot of water for about 45 minutes, until half-cooked.
- Remove from the water, then slice the meat thinly.
- Place the slices in a heavy stewing pan or deep sauté pan, and add around 2 cups of beef or veal broth.
- Add a small pinch of ground mace, 1/4 teaspoon of grated nutmeg, a whole peeled onion, and a sprig of fresh thyme.
- Beat one egg yolk and mix it with about 1/4 cup of dry white wine, then combine with the pan ingredients.
- Let the mixture stew gently over low heat, covered, for about 30 minutes, or until the meat is very tender.
- Five minutes before serving, pour in an extra 1 cup of white wine, stir gently, and then serve hot.
Estimated Calories
350 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients, including slicing the meat and measuring spices. The cooking process takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes in total, from simmering the meat to stewing with broth and wine. Each serving has around 350 calories. This recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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