Ragoe Of Lobster
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of 1725
Unknown Author

Ragoe Of Lobster
"Take a Lobster, break It, & take out the Meat & cut It into Pices the size of a Dice. Put It into a Stew Pan with a little Butter, Salt, Pepper, Cloves, Mace, & a little Vinegar. Heat It over the Fire, & Thicken It with a little Flower. Put some Water just to cover It. & let It boil tile tis onough. Then take the Shell of the Lobster & pound It very small in a Mortar. Put It in a Stew Pan & fry It very well with Butter. Put some Water to It & let It be Hot, Then Strain It through a Sive. Then take This Butter & put It to the Ragoe, & It will colour It. Then Dish It up being well Seasonsd."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is written in a style typical for the early 18th century—without precise measurements, oven temperatures, or step-by-step detail. Spelling reflects period convention ('Flower' for flour, 'Sive' for sieve), and punctuation is inconsistent. Instructions are conversational and assume the reader has a working kitchen knowledge, reflecting both the oral tradition and the apprenticeship-based learning of the time. The emphasis on seasoning and tasting 'til tis onough' highlights a trusting relationship between cook and ingredients.

Title
Cookbook of 1725 (1725)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1725
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful window into 18th-century kitchens, this historical culinary volume whisks readers away with its charming recipes and savory secrets from a bygone era.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This is a striking example of early 18th-century British cookery, dating from around 1725. At this time, seafood was enjoying growing popularity at wealthier tables, and the notion of 'ragout'—a saucy, spiced preparation borrowed from French cuisine—was quite fashionable. Lobster was seen as a delicacy, but the real ingenuity is the use of the shell to colour and flavour a buttery sauce. This reveals both a keen sense of economy and an appreciation for depth of flavour. Recipes like this appeared in manuscript collections and personal household books, shared among the literate upper and middle classes.

The recipe would have required a sharp knife for dividing the lobster, a sturdy mortar and pestle to pound the shells, and a sieve (or 'sive') for straining. Stew pans (shallow, straight-sided pans) made of copper or iron were common. Open hearths, with adjustable grates and hooks, were used for all heating and boiling. A wooden spoon or spatula would be used for stirring, and a dish for serving. Today's cooks might use a saucepan, food processor, and fine mesh strainer as equivalents.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
2
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole cooked lobster (1 1/3 to 1 3/4 lbs)
- 2 tablespoons (1 oz) unsalted butter (for ragout)
- 2 tablespoons (1 oz) unsalted butter (for shell butter)
- 1 tablespoon (1/4 oz) plain flour
- 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
- 2/3 cup water (for ragout)
- 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon water (for shell infusion)
- Salt, to taste
- Black pepper, to taste
- Pinch ground cloves
- Pinch ground mace
- Optional: fresh parsley or dill, chopped, for garnish
Instructions
- Begin by preparing one whole cooked lobster (about 1 1/3 to 1 3/4 lbs).
- Remove and dice the meat into 1/2–3/4 inch cubes.
- In a medium saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons (about 1 oz) butter, then add the lobster meat with a generous pinch of salt and a good crack of black pepper.
- Add a pinch each of ground cloves and ground mace, and a teaspoon of white wine vinegar.
- Gently sauté for 2–3 minutes over medium heat.
- Sprinkle in 1 tablespoon (about 1/4 oz) plain flour, stirring to coat.
- Pour in just enough water (about 2/3 cup) to barely cover the contents.
- Simmer uncovered for 8–10 minutes, or until the lobster is tender and the sauce thickens slightly.
- Meanwhile, crush the lobster shell in a mortar and pestle until fine (or use a rolling pin or food processor as a substitute).
- In another pan, melt 2 tablespoons (about 1 oz) butter, add the crushed shells, and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes until aromatic.
- Add 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon water and heat through.
- Strain this mixture through a fine sieve to extract a rich, reddish butter.
- Add this lobster butter to the ragout, stir gently, and season well to taste.
- Serve warm, garnished if you like with chopped fresh herbs.
Estimated Calories
350 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cooking the lobster ragout takes about 30 minutes in total. You will spend some time dicing the lobster and preparing the ingredients before starting to cook. The recipe serves two people, and each serving has about 350 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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