To Stew Cod
From the treasured pages of Cook-book of Margaret Turner
Written by Margaret Eyre

To Stew Cod
"Cut it into slices about an inch thick, season it with Nutmeg, Pepper & Salt, & lay them in a Stew pan with a bunch of sweet herbs & an Oynon 2 or 3 blaids of Maice & a bit of Lemmon Peille, put to it half a pint of white wine, & a quarter of a pint of water, let it stew 5 or 6 minutes, yn put in ye juice of a Lemmon, & few Oysters & their Liquor, let it stew till ye Cod is enough, yn thicken ye sauce with a peice of Butter, roled in flower, & serve it up."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in a swift, almost note-like manner typical of early 18th-century English manuscripts. Spelling was inconsistent: for instance, 'Oynon' for 'onion', 'blaids of Maice' for 'blades of mace', 'yn' for 'then', and 'roled in flower' for 'rolled in flour.' Measurements were imprecise—'half a pint' equates to approximately 250 ml, and seasoning amounts were left to the cook's judgement. Such brevity assumes familiarity with kitchen practice and experience with texture, color, and aroma to judge doneness, as opposed to following precise times and temperatures.

Title
Cook-book of Margaret Turner (1709)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Margaret Eyre
Era
1709
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the refined world of early 18th-century cookery with Margaret Eyre, where recipes are whispered secrets and culinary wonders await. From hearty roasts to delicate sweets, this charming tome serves up inspiration fit for the tables of historic England.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This stewed cod recipe hails from early 18th-century England, specifically around 1709, and comes from the personal manuscript collection of Margaret Eyre. Such manuscript cookbooks were handwritten and exchanged among women of the gentry, capturing everyday and special recipes alike. At the time, English cuisine prized both local and imported spices such as nutmeg and mace, as well as oysters—a common staple of both kitchens and taverns. The addition of wine and lemon reflects the influence of French culinary practices among the upper classes, while the method demonstrates an early form of gentle braising and saucing.

In Margaret Eyre's kitchen, this dish would have been made using a heavy metal stewpan over a wood or coal-fired hearth. The cook would employ a sharp knife for slicing the fish, a mortar and pestle or grater for fresh spices, and simple cloth bundles for the herbs. Cooking was done by controlling coals under and around the pan, with the sauce thickened last-minute by stirring in a flour-covered lump of butter—no balloon whisks or temperature probes, just keen senses and practiced hands.
Prep Time
8 mins
Cook Time
12 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1.3-1.75 lb cod fillet, sliced into 1 inch thick pieces
- 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
- 1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
- 1 1/2 tsp sea salt (or to taste)
- 1 onion, peeled and quartered
- 1 small bunch mixed fresh herbs (such as parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf)
- 2-3 small blades (about 1/16 oz) of dried mace (substitute: pinch of ground mace if unavailable)
- 1 strip lemon peel (about 2.5 inches, no white pith)
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 1/2 cup water
- Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tbsp / 1.5 fl oz)
- 3 oz fresh shucked oysters with their liquor (substitute: 1/3 cup drained canned oysters with some liquid)
- 2 tbsp (1 oz) unsalted butter
- 1 tbsp (about 1/3 oz) plain wheat flour
Instructions
- Slice fresh cod fillets into pieces about 1 inch thick.
- Season well with ground nutmeg, cracked black pepper, and a generous sprinkle of sea salt.
- Arrange the pieces flat in a heavy-bottomed saucepan.
- Add a tied bundle of mixed fresh herbs (such as parsley, thyme, and a little bay), a peeled and quartered onion, several small pieces of mace, and a strip of lemon peel.
- Pour in 1 cup of dry white wine and 1/2 cup of water.
- Bring to a simmer and stew gently for 5-6 minutes.
- Next, add the juice of one lemon and about 3 ounces of shucked oysters along with their liquid (reserved from the packaging or fresh).
- Continue to simmer just until the cod is cooked through and the oysters are heated, around 4-6 more minutes.
- To finish, remove the herb bundle and lemon peel, then swirl in 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) of unsalted butter mixed with 1 tablespoon (about 1/3 ounce) of plain flour, stirring gently to thicken the sauce.
- Serve immediately with the sauce spooned over the fish.
Estimated Calories
220 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cooking this dish takes about 20 minutes in total. Each serving contains about 220 calories. This recipe serves 4 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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