Recipe Manuscript

Coftellas De Vitella Em Fricandó

"Veal Cutlets In Fricassée"

1785

From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha

Written by Lucas Rigaud

Coftellas De Vitella Em Fricandó
Original Recipe • 1785
Original Manuscript(circa Culinary Enlightenment, 1700 - 1800)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Coftellas De Vitella Em Fricandó

"Tomem hum, ou dois quadrados de Vitella, cortem as coftellas em boa groffura, bem aparadas de todas as fuas pelles , e cortando os offos em fórma que naõ fiquem muito compridas, lardeem-se com toucinho fino, e depois de eftarem hum pouco de tempo em agua, entezem-fe ; ponhaõ-se a cozer, tempere-se, e acabem-se do mefmo modo que hum fricandó; depois deixem hum pouco de caldo no verniz que ficou pegado, ou hum pouco de culi, tirem-lhe a gordura, passe-se pelo peneiro para fervir de baixo das cóftellas com çumo de limaõ. Tambem podem pôr por baixo das coftellas affim envernizadas, hum ragú de cebolinhas bem brancas, e outras vezes de azedas, ou de efpinafres, de aipo, de chicoria, ou de alface, e tambem de ervilhas verdes: finalmente servem-se com o molho, ou ragú, que parecer mais conveniente, dando ao prato o nome da guarniçaõ que tiver."

English Translation

"Take one or two squares of veal, cut the cutlets to a good thickness, well trimmed of all their skins, and cut the bones so that they are not too long; lard them with thin bacon, and after letting them sit for a little while in water, season them; put them to cook, season, and finish them in the same manner as a fricandó; then leave a little broth in the glaze that has stuck, or a little coulis, remove the fat, strain it through a sieve to boil under the cutlets with lemon juice. You can also serve under the glazed cutlets a ragout of very white onions, or sometimes sorrel, or spinach, celery, chicory, or lettuce, and also green peas: finally, they are served with the sauce or ragout that seems most suitable, giving the dish the name of the garnish it has."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in formal 18th-century Portuguese, displaying period spellings such as 'coftellas' (costelas, or cutlets) and 'eftar' (estar), with numerous archaic conventions, making it both loquacious and elliptical. Instructions are not strictly sequential, and quantities are rarely specified—typical of the era, relying on the judgment of skilled cooks to fill in gaps. The description is rich in culinary jargon of the day (e.g., 'lardear', 'culi'), revealing the technique-focused mindset. Such recipes assumed readers knew the basic methods—focusing on what was unique, seasonal, or sophisticated about each preparation.

Recipe's Origin
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Lucas Rigaud

Era

1785

Publisher

L. da Silva Godinho

Background

A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.

Kindly made available by

Internet Archive
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe originates from Lucas Rigaud's influential cookbook "Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha," published in Lisbon in 1785. It provides a fascinating glimpse into the refined, French-influenced Portuguese court cuisine of the 18th century, where skilled chefs adapted European techniques to local tastes and ingredients. The dish reflects the era's fascination with fricandeau—veal braised with lardons, a hallmark of French skill—translated into the Portuguese context, using local meats, fresh vegetables, and rich, savory sauces. Dishes like this were prestige items, prepared for elite households and festive occasions, showcasing both decorative skill (in larding) and the subtle layering of flavors. In the cosmopolitan kitchens of Lisbon, such recipes signaled both French sophistication and local abundance—fusing culinary artistry with the region's market produce.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

In the 18th century, preparing this dish would have required a sturdy wooden chopping block, a long, sharp knife for cutting meat and trimming bones, a larding needle or small knife for inserting strips of pork fat, and a heavy copper or iron stewpan for braising. The sauce would have been strained through fine cloth or a sieve and finished over gentle coals. To prepare vegetable garnishes, cooks would use small knives and a large, shallow pan for stewing or sautéing. All work was done over wood or charcoal fires, with keen attention to temperature and timing.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

40 mins

Servings

4

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 2.2–2.6 lbs veal (in two thick slices, about 18–21 oz each)
  • 3.5 oz thinly sliced pork fat, pancetta, or fresh bacon
  • 1 quart veal or beef stock
  • 1–2 tablespoons lemon juice (juice of 1 lemon)
  • Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
  • Optional: 10.5 oz pearl onions (for ragoût)
  • Optional: 7 oz sorrel, spinach, celery, or chicory, or lettuce, or green peas (choose one as garnish)
  • Optional: 2 tablespoons veal demi-glace or concentrated reduction ('culi')

Instructions

  1. Begin by selecting one or two thick slices (1 1/4–1 1/2 inches thick, about 18–21 oz each) of veal, well-trimmed of all membranes and sinew.
  2. Cut into large cutlets of even thickness, trimming bones to a manageable length if present.
  3. Lard each cutlet with thin strips of pork fat or pancetta, inserting the fat into the meat using a small sharp knife or larding needle.
  4. Soak the larded cutlets in cold water for 10–15 minutes, then pat them dry.
  5. Sear the cutlets in a heavy-bottomed pan until lightly browned on both sides.
  6. Add enough veal or beef stock to partially submerge them, and season with salt and white pepper.
  7. Cover and simmer gently until tender (about 30–40 minutes).
  8. Once cooked, remove the cutlets and keep them warm.
  9. Reduce the cooking liquid until slightly thickened and glossy, skimming off the fat.
  10. Optionally, add a spoonful of veal demi-glace or a little rich 'culi' (a reduction sauce).
  11. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve, finish with a squeeze of lemon juice, and pour over (or under) the cutlets to serve.
  12. Optionally, serve over a bed of braised pearl onions, sorrel, spinach, celery, chicory, lettuce, or peas.
  13. Choose the garnish to your taste and give the dish the name of its accompaniment (e.g., 'coftellas de vitella com ervilhas').

Estimated Calories

340 per serving

Cooking Estimates

We estimate about 20 minutes to prepare the cutlets, lard them, and sear them. Cooking the veal takes 30-40 minutes, and the sauce takes about 5 extra minutes. Each serving is about 340 calories if you use veal, a little pork fat, and a light sauce. This recipe gives about 4 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

Loading...

Join the Discussion

Rate This Recipe

Loading security verification...
Loading form...
Categories

Dietary Preference

Main Ingredients

Culinary Technique

Occasions

Repository of Culinary Knowledge

Browse our complete collection of time-honored recipes