Coelhos Á Maruja
"Maruja'S Rabbit"
From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha
Written by Lucas Rigaud

Coelhos Á Maruja
"Limpos, e esfolados os coelhos, cortaõ-se em bocados, ou em quartos: ponha-se a córar em manteiga, huma pouca de farinha; depois desta córada, refoguem nella os coelhos, molhem-nos depois com agua, e hum quartilho de vinho tinto, temperem de sal, pimenta, e huma capella de salsa, tomilho, louro, mangericão, huma cebola cravejada, e huns dentes de alho; e postos a cozer, e tiradas as escumas, deixem ferver brandamente; estando quasi cozidos, ajuntem-lhe huma duzia de cebolinhas inteiras entezadas em agua quente; acabados de cozer, e o molho reduzido, e de bom gosto, tirase-lhe a gordura, e a capella dos cheiros, e ferve-se com hum golpe de vinagre."
English Translation
"Clean and skin the rabbits, then cut them into pieces or quarters. Brown them in butter with a little flour; after browning, sauté the rabbits in this mixture, then moisten with water and a quart of red wine. Season with salt, pepper, a bundle of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, basil, a clove-studded onion, and a few garlic cloves. Bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that rises, and let simmer gently. When almost cooked, add a dozen whole onions that have been blanched in hot water. Once they are done cooking, and the sauce is reduced and flavorful, remove the fat and the bundle of herbs, and finish by boiling with a splash of vinegar."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the conversational, imperative style of its era, assuming the reader already knew basic kitchen tasks. Quantities were rarely precise, relying on the cook's judgment for seasoning and thickness of sauces. Spelling reflects late 18th-century Portuguese orthography, with some words (like 'mangericão' for manjericão/basil or 'capella' for a small bundle) differing from today. It assumes access to fresh rabbit and garden herbs, and uses French-inspired methods like making a roux and enriching the sauce with wine and vinegar. Such recipes were guides rather than rigid formulas, allowing for adaptation depending on ingredients and circumstance.

Title
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Lucas Rigaud
Era
1785
Publisher
L. da Silva Godinho
Background
A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.
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Internet Archive
This hearty rabbit stew comes from 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' by Lucas Rigaud, published in Lisbon in 1785. At the time, such cookbooks represented the fusion of Portuguese tradition and influences from French culinary practices that were sweeping across 18th-century Europe. Rabbit was a common meat in Portugal, prized both by nobility and rural families. The use of wine, classic herbs, and simple but effective techniques reflects both rustic resourcefulness and a nod to evolving gastronomic sophistication among the country's elite.

The cook would have used a heavy iron or copper pot, likely set over an open hearth or on hot embers. A wooden spoon or paddle was used for stirring. Herb bundles were tied in linen or left loose for easy removal, while knives were employed for jointing the rabbit. Pots for blanching and peeling onions also featured, as did ladles for skimming. All work was done by hand, and temperature control depended on the experience of the cook and the positioning of the pot over the fire.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 medium rabbits (about 4.5–5.5 lb total), cleaned and skinned
- 1.75 oz (3.5 tablespoons) unsalted butter
- 0.5 oz (1 tablespoon) plain flour
- 2 cups (1 pint) red wine, dry
- Water (enough to cover the meat, approx. 3 1/4 cups)
- Salt, to taste
- Black pepper, to taste
- 1 small bunch parsley
- 2 sprigs thyme
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 sprigs basil (or sweet basil leaf)
- 1 medium onion, whole, studded with 3–4 whole cloves
- 3–4 garlic cloves, whole, crushed
- 12 small white onions (about 5 oz), peeled and blanched
- 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) red wine vinegar
Instructions
- Begin by cleaning and skinning two medium rabbits (about 4.5–5.5 lb total), then cut them into serving pieces or quarters.
- In a large heavy pot, melt about 3.5 tablespoons (1.75 oz) of unsalted butter and sprinkle in a tablespoon (about 0.5 oz) of plain flour, stirring to make a light roux.
- Brown the rabbit pieces in this butter-flour mixture until lightly golden.
- Add just enough water to cover the meat and pour in 2 cups (1 pint) of red wine.
- Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
- Add a bundle (bouquet garni) containing a small bunch of parsley, a couple of sprigs each of thyme, bay leaf, and basil.
- Insert 3 or 4 whole cloves into a medium onion and add this onion to the pot with 3–4 whole, crushed garlic cloves.
- Skim any foam that rises and let the mixture simmer gently.
- Once the rabbit is nearly cooked, add a dozen small onions (about 5 oz), which have been blanched in hot water.
- Continue to simmer until all ingredients are tender and the sauce is well reduced and flavorful.
- Remove the herbs and excess fat, then finish the dish with a generous splash (about 2 tablespoons, 1 fl oz) of good red wine vinegar.
- Serve hot.
Estimated Calories
470 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and cutting the rabbits, making the roux, and blanching the small onions takes about 30 minutes. Cooking the rabbit with wine and herbs, then simmering with the small onions, takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Each serving is estimated to be about 470 calories based on the ingredients.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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