Gedämpfte Kälberrippen Oder Brisolen

This recipe hails from Sophie Juliane Weiler's 'Augsburgisches Kochbuch' published in 1788 in the bustling city of Augsburg, Germany—a center of culinary tradition and print culture in the late 18th century. At this time, the art of cookery was transitioning from open hearths and basic stews to more refined techniques that used gentle heat, such as 'dämpfen' (steaming or gentle braising), known for producing moist and tender meats. Weiler’s book sits at the intersection of tradition and Enlightenment-era kitchen science. Dishes such as these, featuring mild veal, aromatic butter, and the subtle perfumes of nutmeg and citrus, exemplified the refined, yet accessible cuisine of upper-middle-class German households. The addition of anchovies or capers reflects cosmopolitan influences entering Bavarian kitchens via trade, travel, and cookbooks.

Cooks of the 18th century would have prepared this dish using a heavy, shallow copper or iron pan (often referred to as a 'Geschirr'), most often placed over a bed of glowing charcoal rather than an open flame. A tight-fitting lid was essential to trap the steam and gently cook the meat. A simple kitchen knife and a wooden or iron meat mallet would be used for preparing the ribs, while wooden spoons and ladles helped mingle the sauce. Cookware was heated by situating pans over beds of coals or inside 'Deselein' (warm ovens or hearths) to maintain a steady, gentle heat. No precise kitchen timers: the progress of the dish was tracked by color, scent, and touch.