To Make A Pastry With A Sallett

This recipe originates from an early 18th-century English household manuscript, likely penned around 1700. It reveals both the influence of European (especially French and Italian) cookery and the English penchant for combining meats with piquant or 'sallet' ingredients in pies and pastries. At this time, veal was a prized meat, often paired with briny, herbal, or sharp accompaniments to stimulate the appetite. Ingredients like capers, olives, and anchovies would have been imported and considered somewhat luxurious, reflecting both the reach and aspirations of a well-stocked English kitchen. 'Samphire' and broom buds, popular in the era for their fresh, slightly salty or bitter flavor, were foraged seasonals that added a touch of wild greens to the dish. Dousing the pie with wine and anchovies near the end of baking infused it with a rich umami punch—a practice that illustrates the era's evolving palate.

In the early 1700s, a cook would have used a heavy, floured rolling pin to tenderize the veal and a pastry board for rolling out the dough. A deep pie dish (often of glazed earthenware or metal) would be lined with pastry and filled as directed. The pie was baked in a wood-fired or coal-fired oven, monitored by experience rather than thermometers. Mixing was done by hand or with a wooden spoon. Melting the anchovies in wine was carried out in a small metal saucepan or pipkin over an open fire or coals, stirred with a wooden or metal spoon. Much of the preparation required a keen eye and practiced touch, as precise temperatures and times were not recorded.