To Stew Carpes
From the treasured pages of Receipt book of Penelope Jephson
Written by Penelope Patrick

To Stew Carpes
"First Cutt ym in the heads & make ym to bleed then put in a Cittell salt & wine vinegarr in the blood & Role the Carpes in itt long wele sealed then put to ym 2 or 3 cloues a littell mace 2 or 3 Races of Ginger bruized a good quantiy of pepper & littell onyons a cloue or two of Garlecke & littell horse Radish a Bundell of sweete herbes take as much clarrot & wine with a littell watter as will couer ym let the 3d part bee wyne then set ym a stowing when they are a nough disolued 2 or 3 Anchouis then take out the Carpes & straine the liquor into a saucepann & beate 2 or 3 yolks of eggs & sett the liquor ouer the fyer & put in a good peece of butterr & the eggs & keepe itt stiring till it be thick a nough then serue it upp with sippetts of white breade"
Note on the Original Text
Recipes from this era often assume a certain level of culinary knowledge, so directions are brief and ingredients can be vague or quantities unspecified. Spelling is variable ('Carpes' for carp, 'ym' for 'them', 'cloues' for cloves, etc.) reflecting the orthographic conventions of the time. Measurement units are lacking, as cooks of the period relied on experience, estimation, and available resources. Clarity relies on kitchen hierarchies—skilled cooks would interpret and adapt instructions as needed. This recipe shows an early step toward modernization with the inclusion of wine, vinegar, and thickened sauces, but it still reads as a practical, performance-based kitchen guide rather than a precise manual.

Title
Receipt book of Penelope Jephson (1673)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Penelope Patrick
Era
1673
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step back into the sumptuous kitchens of the late 17th century with Penelope Patrick’s culinary collection—a feast of historic recipes, secret tips, and the irresistible flavors of Restoration England all bound together in a handwritten treasure.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe originates from a late 17th-century English manuscript attributed to Penelope Patrick (1646–1725), dating between 1671 and 1675. During this period, fresh water fish like carp were commonplace in English gentry households, often prepared in elaborate ways to showcase culinary skill. The use of blood and vinegar for marinating hints at continental, especially French, influences, common in English aristocratic and upper-class kitchens after the Restoration. Stews like this, with rich sauces thickened with eggs and butter, reflect both the evolving tastes of the period and the desire to display both wealth and refined technique at the table.

In the 17th century, this dish would have been made in a large, heavy brass or copper kettle ("cittell"), set over an open hearth. Ingredients were prepared using a sharp knife for filleting and for bleeding the fish, a mortar and pestle for bruising ginger and spices, and wooden or earthenware bowls for mixing. Straining was likely done with a fine cloth or hair sieve, and egg yolks beaten with a wooden spoon or whisk. The final sauce was thickened over gentle embers rather than direct flame to avoid curdling, requiring practiced control and attention.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 whole carp (each 2.2–3.3 lbs), cleaned and gutted
- Blood from the carp
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 2–3 whole cloves
- 1/4 tsp ground mace (or pinch of freshly grated nutmeg as substitute)
- 2–3 slices (about 1/3 oz) fresh ginger root, bruised (or 1 tsp ground ginger)
- 1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
- 3–4 small pearl onions, peeled (or 1 medium shallot, sliced)
- 1–2 cloves garlic, smashed
- 1 tbsp freshly grated horseradish (or 1 tsp prepared horseradish)
- 1 small bundle of fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, bay leaf, tied together)
- 3 1/4 cups dry red wine
- 6 1/3 cups water
- 2–3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
- 2–3 egg yolks
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter
- 4–6 slices white bread, lightly toasted
Instructions
- Begin by cleaning and bleeding two whole carp (each about 2.2–3.3 lbs), making a small cut near the head and collecting the blood in a bowl.
- Add half a teaspoon of salt and 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar to the blood, mixing gently.
- Roll the cleaned carp in this mixture and let them marinate briefly.
- Place the marinated carp in a large pot.
- Add 2 or 3 whole cloves, a pinch of ground mace, 2 or 3 slices of bruised (crushed) fresh ginger (or 1 tsp ground ginger), a generous amount of black pepper (about 1 tsp coarsely ground), small pearl onions (3–4, peeled), 1–2 cloves of garlic (smashed), and a little grated horseradish (about 1 tablespoon).
- Add a small bundle of fresh herbs such as parsley, thyme, and bay leaf, tied together with kitchen twine.
- Pour in enough red wine and water (one-third wine, two-thirds water) to cover the fish—about 3 1/4 cups red wine to 6 1/3 cups water.
- Gently simmer (not boil) the carp until cooked through, about 20–30 minutes.
- Once tender, dissolve 2–3 anchovy fillets into the hot broth.
- Remove the fish, and strain the cooking liquid into a clean saucepan.
- In a bowl, beat 2 or 3 egg yolks with a small knob of softened butter (about 2 tablespoons).
- Gradually whisk the hot broth into the yolk-butter mixture, then return everything to the pan.
- Stir constantly over gentle heat until the sauce thickens.
- To serve, slice some white bread, toast lightly, and arrange as sippets (croutons) in a serving dish.
- Lay the fish over the bread and pour over the rich, savory sauce.
- Serve immediately.
Estimated Calories
400 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing and marinating the fish takes about 30 minutes, and cooking takes another 30 minutes. Each serving is about 400 calories, and this recipe makes 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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