Färska Spritärter
"Fresh Field Peas"
From the treasured pages of Praktisk, illustrerad kok-bok för Svenskarne i Amerika
Written by C. A. (Charles A.) Vallentin
Färska Spritärter
"— 1 qvart åkerärter, som ej äro för mycket matade, sprängas, och aktas att inga maskätna eller annat fnask må följa med. Ärterna läggas i kokande vatten i en panna; 1 rågad sked smör pålägges, och då ärterna kännas kokta slås de upp i ett fat. I pannan fräsas litet smör och mjöl, ärtspadet slås dertill och röres, tills såsen kokar; ärterna läggas deri, och när de koka, påläggas litet finhackad persilja samt litet socker och muskott. Man kan äfven afreda den med sammanvispadt 3—4 äggulor och 2—3 matskedar söt grädda. Anrättningsstunden slås detta i ärterna och röres väl om, men får ej koka ty den skär sig. Ärterna slås på djupt fat och serveras med varm fiskfärs pudding skuren i snibbar, eller med frästa kräftstjertar, samt serveras med varm kalfstek, köttbullar, kalfkotletter, salt tunga och dito bringa m. m., eller ock med skuren spickeskinka."
English Translation
"— 1 quart field peas, not too mature, are shelled, making sure no worm-eaten or otherwise bad peas are included. The peas are placed in boiling water in a pan; 1 heaping spoon of butter is added, and when the peas feel cooked, they are taken up onto a dish. In the pan, a little butter and flour are sautéed, the pea liquid is added and stirred until the sauce boils; the peas are put into it, and when they boil, a little finely chopped parsley as well as a little sugar and nutmeg are added. You can also thicken the sauce with 3–4 beaten egg yolks and 2–3 tablespoons sweet cream. At the moment of serving, this is stirred into the peas and mixed well, but must not boil, as it will curdle. The peas are poured onto a deep dish and served with warm fish mousse cut into wedges, or with sautéed crayfish tails, and served with warm veal roast, meatballs, veal cutlets, salted tongue and brisket, etc., or also with sliced smoked ham."
Note on the Original Text
Historical Swedish recipes of the late 1800s were written in an instructive, almost conversational style—a trusted cook would fill in the gaps left by sparse measurements or directions. Quantities might be given in 'qvart' (quart) or 'sked' (spoon), and precision was less important than experience and good judgement. Words like 'sprängas' (to shell or burst open pods) or 'fnask' (undesirable bits, sometimes even referring to worms) signal a reliance on homegrown, hand-prepared ingredients. Spelling and grammar reflected nineteenth-century norms, with slightly different punctuation, word endings, and occasionally older terms ('ärter' for peas, where today 'ärtor' is used).
Title
Praktisk, illustrerad kok-bok för Svenskarne i Amerika (1889)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
C. A. (Charles A.) Vallentin
Era
1889
Publisher
Svenska bok-och musikhandelns förlag
Background
A practical and charmingly illustrated Swedish cookbook tailored for immigrants in America, this 1889 volume serves up a delightful array of recipes and culinary wisdom, blending Old World tradition with New World ingredients.
Kindly made available by
Library of Congress
This recipe for 'Färska spritärter' (Fresh Shelled Peas) comes from C. A. Vallentin's 'Praktisk, illustrerad kok-bok för Svenskarne i Amerika', published in Minneapolis in 1889. At the time, Swedish immigrants in the United States craved the homey dishes of their homeland, adapting traditional foods to new ingredients found in the Americas. The dish reflects nineteenth-century Swedish culinary sensibilities—simple, vegetable-forward, and yet rich with butter and eggs, meant to accompany substantial roasts or celebratory meats. Peas, associated with summer and abundance, mark the passage of spring into full harvest, and such recipes highlight their fleeting freshness before canning and freezing became commonplace.
Originally, the peas would have been podded by hand at the kitchen table, using a sharp paring knife or just nimble fingers. A heavy iron saucepan or copper pot, set over a wood or coal-burning stove, would have been used for boiling and making the sauce. Butter would be churned at home or bought from the market, and a wooden spoon or whisk used to blend flour and liquids together. A deep serving dish or platter would finish the presentation, often accompanied by a large carving set for the meats served alongside.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 quart (about 24–28 oz) fresh shelling peas (alternatively, use frozen peas if fresh are unavailable)
- 2–3 tablespoons (1–1.5 oz) unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon (0.35 oz) all-purpose flour
- 1 small bunch (about 0.18–0.35 oz) fresh parsley, finely chopped
- 1/2–1 teaspoon (0.09–0.18 oz) granulated sugar
- 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg (freshly grated, if possible)
- 3–4 egg yolks (optional, for richer sauce)
- 2–3 tablespoons (1–1.5 fl oz) heavy cream (optional, for richer sauce)
- Salt to taste
Instructions
- Begin by selecting about 1 quart (4 cups) of fresh shelling peas—look for plump, sweet pods, but avoid those that feel tough or over-matured.
- Remove the peas from their pods, taking care to discard any that show signs of insect damage or spoilage.
- Bring a pot of water to a vigorous boil and add the peas, along with a generous tablespoon (about 0.7–0.9 oz) of butter.
- Boil the peas until just tender, then drain—reserve the cooking water.
- Place the peas in a serving dish.
- In the empty saucepan, melt a small knob of butter (about 1 tablespoon or 0.5 oz), stir in 1 tablespoon (0.35 oz) of flour to make a roux, and gently cook until just bubbling.
- Gradually pour in the reserved pea cooking water, stirring constantly, to create a light sauce.
- Once it thickens and simmers, return the cooked peas to the pan.
- Add a handful of finely chopped fresh parsley, a pinch of sugar (1/2–1 teaspoon), and a few scrapings of freshly grated nutmeg.
- Stir and let it come just to a simmer.
- For a richer finish, you may whisk together 3–4 egg yolks with 2–3 tablespoons (2–3 tablespoons) of heavy cream.
- Remove the peas from the heat and quickly stir in the yolk-cream mixture; do not let it boil, or the sauce may curdle.
- Serve immediately in a deep dish, as a bright accompaniment to roast veal, Swedish meatballs, veal chops, salt beef, or even slices of smoked ham.
- Historically, this was also enjoyed with warm fish forcemeat or sautéed crayfish tails for festive occasions.
Estimated Calories
180 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 10 minutes to get your ingredients ready, including shelling fresh peas and chopping parsley. Cooking takes about 10–15 minutes, as you boil the peas and prepare the sauce. Each serving has about 180 calories, and this recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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