Šár V Rosole Uvarený
"Boiled Burbot In Aspic"
From the treasured pages of Prvá kucharská kniha v slovenskej reči
Unknown Author

Šár V Rosole Uvarený
"Táto ryba je podobná mieňu, nemá ani šupy ani kosti, mäso má biele a dlho žije aj bez vody, áno i vtedy sa ešte pohybuje, keď sa na predaj seká z nej. K jedlu vezne sa z nej asi za štyry funty, vypitve sa, pečenka z nej vezne sa von v celosti, ryba sa zasoli, dá sa do nádoby, na ňu prindú voňavé zeliny a ďalej sa pokračuje jako je to pri iných rybách predpísané; zakryté sa nechá stáť, doleje sa vrelou vodou a nechá sa povolne variť. Pri rybách na to treba pilne pozorovať, aby sa nerozvarily, aj aby dosť uvarené boly; ony sa musia dla toho, či je jedna väčšia alebo menšia, dlhšej alebo kratšie variť; potom sa prstom bodne do ryby, či je mäso až do kosti dosť uvarené; potom i to je vážna vec, aby ryba po odvarení v pare dobre zakrytá bola, poneváč v pare dostane svoju skutoční dokonalosť. Pred nastolovaním vezne sa ryba von, nechá sa odtiecť, na dlhú mysu prichystá sa servýt, naňu sa položí ryba, pod č. 104 pripravená chladná omáčka dá sa osobyte do šálky, okolo ryby ale dá sa jako na stužky nastrihaný chren a tak prinde jedlo na stôl."
English Translation
"This fish is similar to a burbot, it has neither scales nor bones, its flesh is white, and it stays alive for a long time even without water. In fact, it still moves even when pieces are being cut off it for sale. For a meal, take about four pounds of the fish, gut it, remove the liver whole, salt the fish, put it into a vessel, add aromatic herbs, and then proceed as described for other fish; cover it and let it stand, then pour in boiling water and let it cook gently. With fish, it is important to take care that they do not overcook but are well-cooked; depending on whether the fish is larger or smaller, it should be cooked for a longer or shorter time. Then poke the fish with a finger to see if the flesh is cooked through to the bone; it is also important that, after boiling, the fish is well covered in steam, because it reaches its true perfection in the steam. Before serving, take the fish out, let it drain, prepare a napkin on a long platter, place the fish on it, prepare a cold sauce as in No. 104 separately in a sauce dish, and around the fish arrange horseradish, cut into ribbons, and then serve the dish to the table."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe style is direct, blending practical kitchen wisdom with assumptions of the cook’s knowledge. Quantities are vague ('za štyry funty' - about 2 kg), but the sensory cues (probing doneness by finger, gentle simmering) reflect pre-thermometer, pre-standardized units of the kitchen. Spelling and phrasing belong to 19th-century Slovak, with some dialect influence and terms now rare. The original expects cooks to link steps across recipes ('as in other fish'), signaling a modular, cumulative approach to household cooking.

Title
Prvá kucharská kniha v slovenskej reči (1870)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1870
Publisher
Unknown
Background
An enchanting culinary treasure from the 19th century, this Slovak cookery book serves up a delightful array of recipes (recepty) to tempt the palate and inspire home chefs. A flavorful journey through time, it captures traditional tastes and kitchen wisdom with old-world charm.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This dish comes from an 1870 Slovak cookbook, showcasing classic Central European fish cookery when freshwater fish were common in rivers and lakes. The description of 'šár' aligns with fish like burbot, long prized for firm, white flesh. At the time, fish like this were a centerpiece on festive tables and could survive for long periods out of water, making them highly valued in markets. The method demonstrates careful handling of the fish and an emphasis on clarity and delicacy – reinforced by the use of aspic-like stocks and the final garnishing with horseradish. Recipe collections like this were both practical manuals and reflections of household sophistication, with women expected to master precise cooking and serving techniques – napkin-lined platters and separate sauces accentuate the ceremonial aspect of the meal.

In the late 19th century, such a dish was likely prepared in a large enamel or copper pot set over a wood or coal stove. Fish was handled with broad spatulas or slotted spoons to prevent breaking. Cutting boards and sharp knives would be used for removing bones and skin. Napping the napkin-lined platter and serving the fish whole required skill and proper tongs or spoons. Grating fresh horseradish called for a hand grater. The sauce would be mixed in bowls, and presented in elegant sauce boats or bowls.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 1/2 lbs white freshwater fish (burbot or substitute, skinned and boneless)
- Coarse salt (to taste)
- Aromatic herbs: 1 bunch parsley root, 1 stick celery, several sprigs lovage or dill
- Boiling water (enough to cover the fish)
- Fresh horseradish root (approx. 2 oz), shredded
- Optional: vegetables like carrot or onion for added aroma
- Cold horseradish sauce (see recipe reference 104 or modern alternative: 1/2 cup sour cream, 2 tbsp grated horseradish, pinch of sugar, vinegar, salt)
Instructions
- This recipe is for a freshwater fish called 'šár', which no longer exists under this name but is described as similar to the burbot (Lota lota).
- To modernize, use about 4 1/2 lbs of skinned, boneless white freshwater fish such as burbot, catfish, or even pike-perch (zander).
- Clean and salt the fish thoroughly, remove the liver (pečenka) whole for later use.
- Arrange the fish in a deep pan or pot, adding aromatic herbs (such as parsley root, celery, and lovage) over the fish.
- Pour over boiling water to cover.
- Simmer gently, taking care not to let the flesh break apart, adjusting the time according to fish size (roughly 15–25 minutes).
- To check doneness, probe the flesh with a finger near the bone – it should be thoroughly cooked but not falling apart.
- Once cooked, leave the fish covered so it can finish gently cooking in its own steam.
- Before serving, drain the fish and place it on a long serving platter covered with a napkin.
- Serve with cold horseradish sauce (as per referenced recipe 104), placing finely shredded horseradish around the fish.
- Serve the sauce separately in a bowl.
Estimated Calories
250 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the fish and sauce takes about 30 minutes. Cooking the fish takes 15–25 minutes. Each serving has about 250 calories. This recipe serves 8 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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