To Make Rice Milk Or Cream To Be Eaten Hot
From the treasured pages of The whole body of cookery dissected
Unknown Author

To Make Rice Milk Or Cream To Be Eaten Hot
"Boyl your Rice in Water about half a quarter of an Hour, put it out into a Cullender, and pick out the unhuskt Rice from it, then put on three Pints of Milk or Cream, or both together, and set it on a heap of Coals in a Skillet; put to it large Mace, whole Cinamon, a Nutmeg in halves; then put almost a quarter of a Pound of your aforesaid Rice, being thinned and beaten with Cream or Milk; let it boyl until the Rice be very tender, and it begins to thicken; then take the yolks of four Eggs, and beat them with some Rose-water, and a Ladleful of your Cream, off the Fire, so stir it all into your Cream over the Fire, then take it off, and season it with Sugar and a little Salt, dish it up, and take forth your whole Spice, scrape Sugar round the brims of your Dish. After the same manner may you make Barley Milk or Cream; only note, you must give Barley far more boyling than your Rice, both in the Water and Milk."
Note on the Original Text
Seventeenth-century recipes rarely list precise measurements or times, relying on the cook's judgement and common practice. Spelling varies—'boyl' for 'boil', 'Cullender' for 'colander', 'yolks' as 'yolkes'—and techniques are described conversationally: 'dish it up', 'scrape Sugar round the brims'. Spices are left whole and removed at the end, reflecting the era's emphasis on infusion rather than direct consumption. Egg custard techniques shine here, with careful tempering ('stir it all into your Cream over the Fire, then take it off') to avoid curdling. The recipe expects the cook to adjust texture and sweetness as needed, typical of early printed English cookbooks, which assumed a certain level of learned skill.

Title
The whole body of cookery dissected (1673)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1673
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A sumptuous exploration of 17th-century English cookery, 'The whole body of cookery dissected' serves up an array of recipes and kitchen wisdom, offering a flavorful journey through the dining tables of Restoration England.
Kindly made available by
Texas Woman's University
This recipe hails from 'The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected' published in 1673, in the midst of England's Restoration period. It was a time when sugar and exotic spices like mace and cinnamon denoted status and global trade connections. Rice, then an expensive imported starch, was used in this dish to create a luxurious, custard-thickened milk or cream dessert, served hot. The method showcases both the fashions and available technology of early modern English kitchens, using gentle heat and fragrant waters to produce a comfortingly rich delicacy. Rice, eggs, spices, and sugar all signified exclusivity, and rose water—ubiquitous in 17th-century European desserts—adds the characteristic floral perfume so loved by the elite of the day.

Cooks of the 17th century used heavy iron or copper skillets, typically set over an open hearth or on a 'heap of coals' for gentle, controlled heat. A 'cullender' (colander) was required to drain and sort the rice; a wooden spoon or similar tool stirred the mixture. Mortars for grinding (if using whole spices), ladles for transferring hot liquids, and deep pottery or pewter dishes for serving would complete the basic batterie de cuisine. Finer tasks like separating eggs and beating them were done by hand, often with a bunch of twigs or a primitive whisk.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 oz white rice
- 6 1/3 cups whole milk (or 4 1/4 cups milk + 2 cups heavy cream)
- 2-3 large blades mace
- 1 whole cinnamon stick
- 1/2 whole nutmeg, split
- 4 egg yolks
- 2 tsp rose water
- 1/3 cup granulated sugar (plus more for garnish)
- Pinch salt
Instructions
- To create Rice Milk or Cream as enjoyed in the 17th century, begin by boiling 2 ounces of white rice in water for about 7 minutes.
- Drain the rice in a colander and sift through to remove any grains with husk (not usually needed today).
- In a saucepan, combine 6 1/3 cups of whole milk (or a mix of 4 1/4 cups milk and 2 cups heavy cream, for richness).
- Add 2-3 large blades of mace, 1 stick of cinnamon (whole), and half a nutmeg (split in two).
- Take about 3 1/2 ounces of the pre-boiled rice and blend it with a bit of the milk or cream until smooth, then add it to the saucepan.
- Simmer gently, stirring, until the rice is very soft and the mixture thickens slightly (10-15 minutes).
- In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks of 4 eggs with 2 teaspoons of rose water and a ladle of hot milk from your saucepan.
- Remove the pan from heat and gently stir in the egg mixture, then return to low heat briefly, stirring, until it thickens to a custard-like consistency.
- Remove all whole spices, season with sugar (about 1/3 cup, or to taste), and a pinch of salt.
- Pour into a serving dish and, while still warm, sprinkle more sugar around the rim for a festive touch.
Estimated Calories
315 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to prep ingredients and workspace, and 30 minutes to cook the dish. This recipe makes about 6 servings, each with roughly 315 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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