Tapas Guisadas Con Aceite
"Se pican menudos gitomates, tomates, cebollas y chiles verdes poblanos sin venas, y se pone á freir en bastante manteca; estándolo, se hecha un poco de harina y se revuelve para que no quede ni espesa ni aguada la salsa: después se echan las papas en grandes rebanadas, bastante aceite y un polvo de pimienta de Tabasco, así que hayan hervido un poco, se les agrega tantito vinagre bueno, se dejan sazonar y después se ponen á reposar al vaho de una olla."
English Translation
"Finely chop tomatoes, onions, and green poblano chiles with the veins removed, and fry them in plenty of lard; while frying, add a little flour and stir so the sauce is neither too thick nor too watery. Then add the potatoes in large slices, plenty of oil, and a dash of Tabasco pepper. Once it has simmered for a bit, add a little good vinegar, let it season, and then let it rest in the steam of a pot."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in the loose, conversational narrative typical of late 19th-century Mexican cookbooks, addressed to home cooks who were expected to cook 'by feel' rather than with precise measurements. Instructions focus on visual and tactile cues—how the sauce should not be too thick or thin, for example—rather than time or temperature. Spelling reflects period conventions: 'gitomates' is an older, regional spelling for 'tomates,' and 'menudos' indicates a fine dice. 'Pimienta de Tabasco' refers to a spicy, possibly imported or regionally celebrated black pepper rather than the modern Tabasco sauce. Quantities like 'tantito' or 'bastante' rely on the cook's judgment, a hallmark of flexible, experience-based instruction.
Title
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 8 (1890)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1890
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful pocket-sized treasure from the 'Cocina en el bolsillo' series, this volume stirs up a medley of flavorful recipes for adventurous cooks eager to savor the tastes of yesteryear.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 8', published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo in Mexico City. The period was marked by rapid modernization, yet home cooking traditions held strong, balancing Spanish colonial influences with indigenous Mexican ingredients and techniques. Vanegas Arroyo was known for making practical, pocket-sized cookbooks accessible to a wide audience, especially urban women seeking to enhance their domestic skills. The recipe reflects 19th-century urban Mexican home cooking—simple, flexible, and affordable, using potatoes (a widespread staple) and available vegetables, enriched with fat and vinegar for depth and preservation.
In the late 19th century, this dish would have been prepared on a stovetop fueled by wood or charcoal. Essential tools included a heavy clay or cast-iron casserole (olla), a sharp kitchen knife, a wooden chopping board, and a wooden spoon or spatula for stirring and mixing. The final resting process—in which the cooked dish is left to mellow under residual heat—would be done by covering the pot and allowing it to sit in a warm spot, harnessing the 'vaho' (steam or warmth) to further blend the flavors.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
35 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 medium ripe tomatoes (about 8.5 oz)
- 1 medium white onion (about 4.2 oz)
- 2 large poblano peppers, seeds and veins removed (about 5.6 oz)
- 1/4 cup pork lard or neutral oil (sub: 1/4 cup vegetable oil)
- 1 tablespoon plain wheat flour (about 0.35 oz)
- 3-4 large potatoes, peeled (about 1 lb 5 oz)
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper or spicy black pepper blend (about 0.04 oz, to substitute for historical 'pimienta de Tabasco')
- 1 tablespoon good quality vinegar (0.5 fl oz)
Instructions
- To recreate 'Tapas Guisadas con Aceite' today, start by chopping 2 medium ripe tomatoes, 1 medium white onion, and 2 large poblano peppers (seeds and veins removed).
- Heat about 1/4 cup of pork lard or neutral oil in a wide skillet over medium heat.
- Add the chopped vegetables and sauté until softened.
- Sprinkle in 1 tablespoon (about 0.35 oz) of plain wheat flour, stirring constantly to create a light roux—just enough so the sauce isn’t too thick or too thin.
- Once well mixed, add 3-4 large potatoes, peeled and sliced into thick rounds.
- Pour in about 1/4 cup of olive oil and a generous pinch (about 1/4 teaspoon, 0.04 oz) of ground black pepper or a spicy black pepper blend to substitute for historical 'pimienta de Tabasco.' Let it all simmer gently until the potatoes are nearly tender.
- Add a dash (around 1 tablespoon, 0.5 fl oz) of good quality vinegar.
- Taste and season if needed, allowing the dish to simmer a few more minutes, then remove from heat and let it rest in the warmth of the pot for flavors to meld before serving.
Estimated Calories
310 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It usually takes about 15 minutes to prepare the vegetables and potatoes. Cooking the veggies, browning the flour, simmering with potatoes, and finishing with vinegar takes about 35 minutes. This recipe serves 4 people. Each serving has about 310 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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