Costillas Empapeladas
"Wrapped Ribs"
From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12
Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Costillas Empapeladas
"Se ponen en infusión por un rato las cos tillas en vinagre ó en limón y luego se unta un papel con manteca ó mantequilla, echán dose bastante pan molido, perejil picado, pimienta, sal y unas buenas rebanadas de jamón; encima de esta las costillas, que se cubren con más perejil, pan y jamón, y una vez así preparadas se envuelven en el pa pel y se ponen á la parrilla."
English Translation
"The ribs are soaked for a while in vinegar or lemon, then a piece of paper is greased with lard or butter, and plenty of bread crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and some good slices of ham are added; on top of this, the ribs are placed and covered with more parsley, bread crumbs, and ham; once prepared this way, they are wrapped in the paper and placed on the grill."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in concise, almost shorthand language typical of late 19th-century cookbooks, assuming the reader's basic culinary proficiency. Directions focus on assembling and layering rather than precise measurements, reflecting a culture of intuitive cooking and oral tradition. Spelling and punctuation may seem archaic, such as 'costillas empapeladas' (ribs in paper), and the use of words like 'papel' referred to parchment rather than today's aluminum foil. Ingredients as 'manteca' could mean either butter or lard, depending on region and availability. Quantities were often left to the cook's judgement, encouraging adaptation and improvisation—a hallmark of historical recipes.
Title
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 12 (1890)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1890
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful pocket-sized treasure from the numbered series 'Cocina en el Bolsillo', this volume serves up a tempting array of recipes, inviting culinary enthusiasts on a tasteful journey through a variety of traditional foods.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe hails from the vibrant world of late 19th-century Mexican kitchens, as documented in Antonio Vanegas Arroyo's series 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo' (No. 12, 1890). These fascinating little pamphlets made home-cooking accessible to a burgeoning urban middle class, blending Spanish and Mexican tastes with available ingredients and technologies. 'Costillas empapeladas' draws influence from both European and Mexican techniques, reflecting a period where home cooks were adventurous, playful, and practical, making do with culinary tools and ingredients at hand.
In 1890s Mexico, cooks would have prepared this recipe using a sturdy charcoal or wood-fired grill (parrilla) for roasting. The 'paper' specified in the recipe was most likely parchment or greased butcher paper, as aluminum foil was not yet commonly available. Mortar and pestle would be used to grind pepper and herbs, and a large kitchen knife would be essential for preparing the ribs and ham. Butter or lard was spread with an old-fashioned knife or even the cook's hands, while the marinating and wrapping required simple earthenware or tin bowls and plenty of patience.
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
40 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 3/4 pounds pork ribs
- 2-3 lemons, juiced (or 1/4 cup vinegar)
- 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter (or lard)
- 3 ounces fresh breadcrumbs
- 1/3 ounce fresh parsley, finely chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 4 ounces sliced smoked ham
- Baking parchment or aluminum foil (as substitute for historical paper)
Instructions
- Begin by marinating pork ribs in either vinegar or the juice of 2-3 lemons for about 30 minutes.
- Lay out baking parchment or aluminum foil and brush generously with about 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) of softened butter.
- Sprinkle over a good layer of about 3 ounces of fresh breadcrumbs, a small bunch (about 1/3 ounce) of finely chopped parsley, a pinch of ground black pepper, and a half teaspoon of salt.
- Arrange several thin slices (around 2 ounces) of smoked ham on top of this mixture.
- Place the marinated ribs (about 1 3/4 pounds, cut into individual pieces or kept as a rack) over the seasoned breadcrumb mixture.
- Top with a further scattering of parsley, breadcrumbs, and more ham slices.
- Enclose the ribs by wrapping them tightly in the buttered parchment or foil.
- Roast the wrapped ribs over a preheated grill or in a 400°F oven for 30-40 minutes, turning once if grilling, until the meat is tender and the filling aromatic.
- Unwrap and serve immediately.
Estimated Calories
540 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend about 15 minutes preparing the ingredients and marinating the ribs, then the ribs will need 30-40 minutes to cook in the oven or on the grill. One serving contains about 540 calories, and this recipe serves 4 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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