Pollo A La Perigord
"Perigord-Style Chicken"
From the treasured pages of Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina de Hortensia Volante
Written by Hortensia Volante
Pollo A La Perigord
"Se toma un pollo bien tierno, y despues de chamuscado y lavado, se pone con manteca de cerdo en una cacerola; cuando esta asado (1/2 hora basta), se saca y se pone en la manteca un diente de ajo, un ramillete con perejil y tomillo, un poco de harina y sin dejarle tomar color, se le añade caldo o jugo de carne sal, pimienta y una pizca de nuez moscada. Se parte el pollo separando las postas, los alones, las pechugas y el caparazón partido en 4 pedazos, y se pone todo en la salsa hasta que el pollo esté a punto; entonces se quita, colocándolo en una fuente honda, el caparazón debajo, encima las patas y el cuello y los alones formando corona con unas ramas de berros se cuela la salsa, se deslie en ella una yema de huevo batido con algunas gotas de limón y se sirve la salsa muy caliente."
English Translation
"Take a very tender chicken, and after singeing and washing it, place it with pork lard in a casserole dish; when it is roasted (half an hour is enough), remove it and add to the lard a clove of garlic, a bouquet of parsley and thyme, a little flour and, without letting it take color, add broth or meat juice, salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Cut the chicken, separating the thighs, wings, breasts, and the carcass cut into 4 pieces, and put everything into the sauce until the chicken is just cooked; then remove it, placing it in a deep dish, the carcass underneath, the legs and neck on top, and the wings forming a crown with some sprigs of watercress. Strain the sauce, blend into it a beaten egg yolk with a few drops of lemon, and serve the sauce very hot."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe is a fine example of early 20th-century manuscript cooking: instructions are conversational, assuming the reader’s familiarity with kitchen basics—thus, quantities, timings, and temperatures are often imprecise. Spelling reflects period norms (e.g., 'asado' for braising/roasting), and terms like 'ramillete' (small bunch or bouquet) draw from both Spanish and French culinary vocabulary, reflecting cultural influences. The recipe directs you to garnish and plate with an eye for presentation, which was a valued skill among accomplished home cooks of the era.
Title
Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina de Hortensia Volante (1902)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Hortensia Volante
Era
1902
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A charming early 20th-century manuscript brimming with delectable recipes, from croquetas to guiso de caracoles, lending a savory glimpse into the flavors of the era.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe for 'Pollo a la Perigord' was penned in 1902 in the private recipe notebook of Hortensia Volante, an early 20th-century home cook. Her 'Cuaderno de Recetas de Cocina' captures a moment when Spaniards, and especially the well-to-do, were enamored with French cuisine. The recipe's name nods to the famed Périgord region of France, celebrated for its refinement and rich flavors. Women like Volante compiled these manuscripts as both practical guides and treasured family heirlooms. The recipes reflect the bridging of local Spanish ingredients and techniques with fashionable French culinary influence of the time.
The original preparation would have involved simple yet sturdy tools: a large earthenware or heavy metal casserole for roasting and simmering; a sharp kitchen knife for jointing the chicken; wooden spoons for stirring; and a handheld fine-mesh sieve or cloth for straining the sauce. A coal or wood-burning stove would serve as the heat source. Whisking the egg yolk into the hot sauce would have been done in the pot or a bowl, using either a fork or small whisk.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
45 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole young chicken (about 3 to 3.5 lbs)
- 3.5 tablespoons (1.75 oz) pork lard (or substitute with unsalted butter if needed)
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 small bunch fresh parsley
- 1 small bunch fresh thyme
- 1 tablespoon (0.35 oz) plain wheat flour
- 1 cup (8 fl oz) chicken or beef stock
- Salt, to taste
- Black pepper, to taste
- Pinch of ground nutmeg
- 1 egg yolk
- Few drops of fresh lemon juice
- Fresh watercress, for garnish
Instructions
- Begin by selecting a young, tender chicken, around 3 to 3.5 lbs.
- After removing any remaining feathers by singeing and thoroughly washing the bird, place it in a heavy-bottomed casserole or Dutch oven with about 3.5 tablespoons (1.75 oz) of pork lard.
- Roast over medium heat for approximately 30 minutes, basting occasionally, until lightly golden.
- Remove the chicken from the pot, and add a whole peeled garlic clove, a small fresh bouquet of parsley and thyme, and 1 tablespoon (about 0.35 oz) of plain flour to the lard, stirring constantly so the flour does not brown.
- Gradually add about 1 cup (8 fl oz) of either chicken or beef stock, seasoning with salt, black pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg.
- Joint the chicken into legs, wings, breast pieces, and quartered back, then return all pieces to the sauce.
- Let simmer on low heat until the chicken is fully cooked and flavors have melded, about 10–15 minutes.
- Arrange the chicken attractively on a deep serving dish: back pieces underneath, legs and neck in the center, and wings forming a crown.
- Garnish with fresh watercress.
- Strain the sauce, and, while still hot, whisk in a beaten egg yolk with a few drops of lemon juice.
- Pour the enriched sauce over the chicken and serve immediately while piping hot.
Estimated Calories
550 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 20 minutes to get the chicken and herbs ready. Cooking takes about 45 minutes in total. Each serving has around 550 calories. This recipe makes 4 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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