To Make Cheife Cakes
From the treasured pages of Medicinal and cookery recipes of Mary Baumfylde
Written by Mary Baumfylde
To Make Cheife Cakes
"Take 6 qrts of new Milk one qrt of cream Sett it as you do a cheese but in steed of warming the milk putt in as much hot water as will make it fitt & when it is come breake it & pour it in to a Cloth & whey it between two & when the whey is very well drained take the curd & breake it with a pound of fresh butterr some mace & a pound of sugar the yelks of 14 Eggs & whites of 8 make Them upon plattis in very good puff past when they are risen & colore they are enough"
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written as a continuous narrative, typical of manuscript cookery books before widespread printed cookbooks. There are no precise temperatures or times; instead, the cook is expected to use their senses and experience. Ingredient measures, such as 'qrts' (quarts), are larger than what modern bakers might use, reflecting the communal or household scale of historical kitchens. Spelling is highly phonetic ('puff past' for 'puff paste'), and instructions rely on period culinary knowledge, such as 'sett it as you do a cheese.' The recipe blends cheese-making and baking techniques, showing the chef’s skill in adapting household staples into luxurious confections.
Title
Medicinal and cookery recipes of Mary Baumfylde (1626)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Mary Baumfylde
Era
1626
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A sumptuous journey into early 17th-century English cookery, this delightful volume offers a tantalizing glimpse into the recipes, flavors, and culinary secrets that once graced aristocratic tables. Prepare for a taste of history, presented with wit and wisdom!
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe, titled 'To Make Cheife Cakes,' emerged in England in the early to mid-17th century. Attributed to Mary Baumfylde (fl. 1626), it is a splendid example of a festive dairy-based cake popular among the elite. During this era, fresh curds blended with butter and eggs created a rich, custardy mixture prized for special occasions and banquets. The use of cheese-making technique in sweet baking highlights the period’s penchant for combining luxurious dairy, sugar—a costly import, and spices. The recipe pre-dates standardized baking, so quantities and methods were often described by process, assuming knowledge of cheese and pastry-making. Cakes such as these bridge the gap between cheese tarts and modern cheesecakes.
Cooks in the 17th century used large cauldrons or milk pans to heat milk and cream, and wooden or metal stirrers to mix ingredients. Curds were drained using linen or woven cheesecloth, and pressure would be applied manually with wooden boards or weights. The mixture was beaten by hand in large bowls, often with wooden spoons. Open hearths or early ovens provided the baking heat, and individual 'plattis' (small plates or shallow dishes) would hold each cake, lined with carefully rolled out puff paste, shaped by hand and cut with knives or rolling pins.
Prep Time
2 hrs 30 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
Servings
16
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1½ gallons (24 cups) whole milk (full fat, unhomogenized if possible)
- 1 quart (4 cups) heavy cream (36% fat)
- 6¼ cups hot water (approximate, enough to reach 98°F when mixed with milk and cream)
- Rennet (vegetarian or animal; per manufacturer's instructions, about 1-2 teaspoons liquid)
- 1 pound (2 cups) unsalted butter (softened)
- 1-2 teaspoons ground mace (or substitute: nutmeg)
- 1 pound (2¼ cups) granulated sugar
- 14 large egg yolks
- 8 large egg whites
- Puff pastry (homemade or good-quality store-bought, about 2½ pounds)
Instructions
- Begin by heating 1½ gallons (24 cups) of fresh whole milk with 1 quart (4 cups) of heavy cream in a large pot.
- Instead of warming the milk directly, add enough hot (not boiling) water—approximately 6¼ cups—to bring the mixture to body temperature, around 98°F.
- Stir in rennet (liquid vegetarian rennet or animal rennet according to package instructions), let it set until it forms curds as for a soft cheese (about 30-60 minutes).
- Break up the curds gently, then transfer them into a large muslin cloth or fine cheesecloth, and drain the whey by hanging or pressing gently between two boards or trays.
- Once the curds are well-drained, place in a bowl and mix with 1 pound (2 cups) softened unsalted butter, 1-2 teaspoons ground mace, 1 pound (2¼ cups) sugar, 14 egg yolks, and 8 egg whites until well combined into a thick, smooth paste.
- Roll out sheets of good-quality puff pastry and line individual baking dishes or tart pans (or make hand pies on baking sheets).
- Mound the curd mixture onto the pastry, then bake at 400°F until puffed and golden, about 20-30 minutes.
- Cakes are done when risen and well-colored.
Estimated Calories
880 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this recipe takes time because you first need to make fresh curds, then mix them with butter, sugar, and eggs to create the filling. Shaping the pastry and filling before baking also takes extra time. The baking itself is pretty quick. The calories per serving are estimated based on the large amounts of cream, butter, sugar, and eggs. This recipe makes about 16 generous individual servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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