Recipe Manuscript

Hechten In Mandel-Kren

Name: Hechten In Mandel-Kren
Prep time: PTPT15M
Cook time: PTPT25M
Yield: 4
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 whole pike (1–1.5 kg), cleaned; 60 g blanched almonds; 30 g fresh horseradish root (or more to taste; substitute: prepared horseradish if fresh is unavailable, though freshly grated is best); 100 ml heavy cream (or sweet cream); 25 g unsalted butter; 2–3 tbsp white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar; Pinch of ground black pepper; Water (for poaching the fish)

"Pike In Almond-Horseradish"

1699

From the treasured pages of Freywillig-auffgesprungener Granat-Apffel, Deß Christlichen Samaritans

Written by Eleonora Maria Rosalia

Renaissance (1400 - 1700)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1699

Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Hechten In Mandel-Kren

"Sied den Hechten heiß ab / und mach folgends Süppel darüber: Nimb ein halben Vierting Mandel / schwölls und stoß in einem Mörser / reib Kren / daß er ein wenig vorschlage / rührs mit Essig ab / brenns auch ein wenig ein / rühr alsdann Milchram daran / biß es süß genug ist / thue auch Butter und Pfeffer darein / laß sieden / und richts über den Hechten an."

English Translation

"Poach the pike well, and then make the following broth to pour over it: Take half a quarter-pound of almonds, blanch them and pound them in a mortar, grate horseradish so that it foams a little, stir it with vinegar, let it simmer a bit, then add cream until it is sweet enough, also add butter and pepper, let it boil, and pour it over the pike."

Note on the Original Text

Seventeenth-century recipes like this one are concise, often omitting specific measurements, temperatures, and timings. The recipe assumes a reader with kitchen experience who understands the 'how' and 'when' of cooking. Old spellings and terms reflect regional dialects—‘Süppel’ for sauce, ‘Hechten’ for pike, ‘Kren’ for horseradish—and the instructions jump straight to method without preamble. Details such as 'halte es süß' (make it sweet) are interpreted by the palate and local taste; 'schwölls' refers to scalding or soaking, here applied to almonds. Like many early cookbooks, it is written for a household familiar with these procedures.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Freywillig-auffgesprungener Granat-Apffel, Deß Christlichen Samaritans - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Freywillig-auffgesprungener Granat-Apffel, Deß Christlichen Samaritans (1699)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Eleonora Maria Rosalia

Era

1699

Publisher

Leopold Voigt

Background

This delightful tome by Duchess Eleonora Maria Rosalia is a treasure trove of culinary wisdom from 17th-century Vienna. Interwoven with remedies and secrets for well-being, it features a charming section described as a 'ganz neues und nutzbahres Koch-Buch'—an entirely new and useful cookbook—offering tried-and-true recipes, kitchen secrets, and practical tips to nourish both body and soul.

Kindly made available by

Wien Bibliothek

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe originates from a 1699 Viennese cookbook compiled by Eleonora Maria Rosalia, a duchess of Troppau and Jägerndorf. Her collection is a fascinating mix of medical remedies and noble table recipes, reflecting the cross-section of health and gastronomy in early modern Central Europe. Pike was a highly esteemed fish in Baroque cuisine, both for its size and delicate flavour. Almonds and horseradish were luxury ingredients. Their combination with cream and butter points to the Baroque era’s love for rich, layered flavours, and the influence of both local Central European and imported culinary trends.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Cooks in the late 17th century would have used a large iron pot for poaching the fish over an open hearth or a tiled stove. A heavy mortar and pestle were essential for grinding almonds and horseradish to a fine paste. A wooden spoon or whisk would be used for stirring and integrating the sauce components, and an earthenware or copper pan set over gentle coals for finishing the sauce. The finished dish would be arranged on a large platter, possibly garnished with additional herbs or almond slivers.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

15 mins

Cook Time

25 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 whole pike (2.2–3.3 lb), cleaned
2 oz blanched almonds
1 oz fresh horseradish root (or more to taste; substitute: prepared horseradish if fresh is unavailable, though freshly grated is best)
1/2 cup heavy cream (or sweet cream)
2 tbsp (about 1 oz) unsalted butter
2–3 tbsp white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
Pinch of ground black pepper
Water (for poaching the fish)

Instructions

Begin by poaching a cleaned pike (about 2.2 to 3.3 pounds) in simmering water until just cooked through; keep it warm.
Prepare the almond-horseradish sauce: take around 2 ounces of blanched almonds, soak them briefly in hot water, then finely grind them in a mortar or food processor.
Peel and finely grate about 1 ounce of fresh horseradish.
Combine the ground almonds and horseradish, whisking to slightly aerate and blend.
Add about 2–3 tablespoons of vinegar (preferably white wine or apple cider vinegar) to the mixture, then gently heat it together, letting it reduce slightly.
Gradually add 1/2 cup of heavy cream, adjusting to your desired sweetness by adding more or less cream.
Incorporate 2 tablespoons (about 1 ounce) of unsalted butter and a pinch of freshly ground black pepper.
Let the sauce simmer gently for a few minutes, ensuring it does not boil, until it's well combined and aromatic.
Once the sauce is ready, pour it generously over the cooked pike and serve immediately.

Estimated Calories

340 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 15 minutes to prepare the ingredients, including grinding almonds and grating horseradish, and around 25 minutes to cook the pike and the sauce. Each serving contains about 340 calories, and this recipe serves 4 people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.