Die Spanisch-Milch / Nares Genannt
"The Spanish Milk / Also Called 'Nares'"
From the treasured pages of Freywillig-auffgesprungener Granat-Apffel, Deß Christlichen Samaritans
Written by Eleonora Maria Rosalia

Die Spanisch-Milch / Nares Genannt
"NImb zwey schwarze unglasirte Weidling / je weiter sie seyn / je besser wirffts auff; darnach nimb ein ganz neugemolckene Milch / wie sie von der Kuhe herkombt / seyhe / thue es in Weidling / setz es auff ein glüenden Aschen / thue aussen herumb kleine glüende Kollen / und laß also 4. oder 5. Stund stehen auff dem glüenden Aschen / wann er ganz außlöscht / thut man wieder ein andern darunter / damit es alleweil von unten gemach / und gemach wallt / nur nicht zu vil Glut / sonsten wird die Haut gleich hart und sperr / aber fort muß alleweil / nur daß mans merckt / wallen / und wanns genug auffgeworffen / 4. oder 5. Stund muß gar gewiß stehen / nimbs von der Glut / setz zudeckter in Keller / laß über Nacht / nimb die obere dicke Haut herab / legs auff ein Schüssel über einander / und zuckers / also ist es gemacht."
English Translation
"108. The Spanish Milk / Also called 'Nares'. Take two black unglazed earthenware bowls—the wider they are, the better the result; then take some completely fresh milk, just as it comes from the cow, strain it, put it into the bowls, set them on glowing ashes, put small glowing coals around the outside, and let them stand like this on the glowing ashes for 4 or 5 hours. When the ashes cool off completely, put fresh hot ones underneath, so that it continues to gently simmer from below—but not too much heat, otherwise the skin will become hard and tough. But it must keep simmering, just make sure to notice. When enough has risen to the top, 4 or 5 hours is necessary, remove it from the heat, set it covered in a cellar, let it stand overnight, then take off the thick skin on top, layer it on a dish one over the other, and sugar it. This is how it is prepared."
Note on the Original Text
The original recipe is written in late Baroque German, with fluid spelling and little punctuation, typical for handbooks before the standardization of German orthography. Instructions are packed into long sentences and rely on the reader’s understanding of contemporary kitchen practices — like managing embers for heat control and using unglazed pottery for gentle, indirect cooking. Words such as 'NImb' for 'take', 'auffgeworffen' for 'risen' (referring to the skin), and 'zuckers' for 'sugar it' mark the informal and practical tone. The method is both descriptive and elliptical, assuming hands-on familiarity with dairy handling in a large household kitchen.

Title
Freywillig-auffgesprungener Granat-Apffel, Deß Christlichen Samaritans (1699)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Eleonora Maria Rosalia
Era
1699
Publisher
Leopold Voigt
Background
This delightful tome by Duchess Eleonora Maria Rosalia is a treasure trove of culinary wisdom from 17th-century Vienna. Interwoven with remedies and secrets for well-being, it features a charming section described as a 'ganz neues und nutzbahres Koch-Buch'—an entirely new and useful cookbook—offering tried-and-true recipes, kitchen secrets, and practical tips to nourish both body and soul.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe, called 'Spanisch-Milch' or 'Nares', comes from a quintessential late 17th-century Austrian noblewoman’s compendium — a mix of medical advice, kitchen wisdom, and household secrets compiled by Eleonora Maria Rosalia, Duchess of Troppau and Jägerndorf. Such collections were immensely popular among Europe's aristocracy, blending practical knowledge and medicinal cookery, especially for the betterment of household health and hospitality. The method is cousin to the early European traditions of clotted cream or English 'Devonshire cream', where gently heated milk develops a luscious crust. The process and resulting treat represent a time when dairy was consumed as both food and medicinal tonic, celebrated for its nourishing properties and decadently simple flavors.

Back in 1699, this delicacy required unglazed earthenware bowls (called 'Weidling'), a fireplace or hearth with glowing wood ashes, and small embers to control the temperature. A wooden or metal sieve was used to strain the milk, and a cool basement or cellar provided the ideal place to set the finished bowls overnight for further setting. For finishing, a shallow pan or dish would have been used to layer the milk skin, and cane sugar would be sprinkled between layers to create a confection-like effect.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
5 hrs
Servings
10
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 3–4 quarts fresh, unpasteurized whole cow's milk (as fresh as possible)
- Sugar, to taste
Instructions
- Take two large, unglazed ceramic or earthenware bowls (the wider, the better for even heat distribution).
- Pour freshly drawn unpasteurized cow's milk — straight from the cow if possible — through a sieve and into the bowls.
- Set the bowls onto warm ashes from a wood fire; surround each with small, glowing embers, keeping the heat low and steady but never letting the fire become too intense.
- Let the milk gently simmer and form a skin for four to five hours, refreshing the embers as needed to maintain gentle heat.
- Do not allow a full boil; the goal is gentle bubbling and slow thickening.
- Once enough skin (or 'top') has formed after 4–5 hours, remove from the heat, cover, and leave in a cool cellar overnight.
- In the morning, carefully lift off the thick creamy skin, layering it on a serving dish and sprinkling each layer with sugar.
- Serve as a delicate, rich dairy treat.
Estimated Calories
270 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing the milk and bowls takes about 10 minutes. Cooking the milk on the embers takes 4 to 5 hours. Letting the dish rest overnight is not included in cooking time. Each serving contains about 270 calories, and you can serve 10 people with this recipe.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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