Recipe Manuscript

Rehrücken

Name: Rehrücken
Prep time: PTPT30M
Cook time: PTPT1H30M
Yield: 8
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1 saddle of venison (approx. 2–2.5 kg); 200 g pork back fat or streaky bacon (for larding); Marinade: 500 ml red wine, 100 ml wine vinegar, 1 onion (sliced), 2 bay leaves, 10 juniper berries, 1 tsp black peppercorns; 100 ml heavy cream; Salt and pepper to taste; 1 lemon (for peel/zest); 2 tbsp capers; Baking paper or parchment

"Saddle Of Venison"

1850

From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1850

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Rehrücken

"Der Rehrücken wird wie der Schlegel vorbereitet, und, wenn man will, eingebeizt; dann zieht man ihm die Haut ab, klopft das Fleisch von den Rippen ein wenig zurück, spickt den Schlegel gut mit Speck, überwindet ihn mit Papier, bratet ihn recht langsam, und begießt ihn einigemal mit Beize und Rahm. In der Schüssel wird er mit Limonienschalen und Kapern geziert."

English Translation

"The saddle of venison is prepared in the same way as the haunch and, if desired, marinated; then the skin is removed, the meat is loosened a little from the ribs, the haunch is well larded with bacon, covered with paper, roasted very slowly, and basted several times with the marinade and cream. On the serving dish it is garnished with lemon peel and capers."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in a concise, almost shorthand style typical of mid-19th century cookbooks, assuming significant prior knowledge from the reader. Quantities are rarely specific, as cooks were expected to know amounts by instinct, taste, or experience. Spelling and naming conventions are slightly archaic (e.g. ‘Rahm’ for cream, ‘überwindet’ for ‘wraps’), reflecting German culinary terminology of the era. Instructions focus on sequence rather than minute detail, requiring cooks to make judgments about time, temperature, and seasoning based on the meat at hand and available tools.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Era

1850

Publisher

Dirnböck

Background

A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.

Kindly made available by

Wien Bibliothek

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe hails from ‘Der Marianka’, the tried-and-true cookbook of Marianka, once the personal cook for Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen near Vienna. Published in 1850, at a time when Austrian and Bohemian cuisines were embracing a blend of elegant courtly refinement and hearty country fare, it aimed to bridge noble and middle-class kitchens during challenging, expensive times. Game dishes like this Rehrücken were showstoppers at festive tables, speaking to both seasonality and status, while also demonstrating the cook’s technique with marination, larding, and fine finishing touches such as lemon and caper garnishes. The use of paper wrapping and regular basting reveals a gentle approach to roasting prized cuts, maximizing both tenderness and flavor.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

Historically, such a roast would be prepared with a sturdy kitchen knife for trimming and larding, a larding needle (or sharp knife) for inserting fat, heavy kitchen twine, and wrapping paper (often simply buttered or oiled paper). The roast was cooked in a wood-fired or coal-fired oven using a large roasting pan, regularly basted with a long-handled spoon or ladle, and tested for doneness by touch or by sight (rather than thermometer). Presentation on a grand platter with decorative lemon peel and capers completed the meal, served with kitchen tongs or carving fork.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

1 hr 30 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

1 saddle of venison (approx. 4.5–5.5 lbs)
7 oz pork back fat or streaky bacon (for larding)
Marinade: 2 cups red wine, 7 tbsp wine vinegar, 1 onion (sliced), 2 bay leaves, 10 juniper berries, 1 tsp black peppercorns
7 tbsp heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
1 lemon (for peel/zest)
2 tbsp capers
Baking paper or parchment

Instructions

Start by preparing the saddle of venison (Rehrücken) in a similar way you would a venison leg: trim off any silver skin and unwanted membrane.
Optionally, marinate the saddle overnight in a mixture of red wine, vinegar, aromatics like onion, bay leaf, juniper, and peppercorns for flavor and tenderness.
Next, peal off the outer skin, and gently loosen the flesh along the ribs.
Stud the meat with thin strips of pork fat or bacon (larding), ensuring an even distribution for moisture and flaver.
Wrap the entire saddle in baking paper or parchment (substitute for the traditional paper of the period).
Roast gently in an oven preheated to 320°F, basting several times during cooking first with some of the reserved marinade and then with heavy cream.
Once cooked to your desired doneness (recommended medium-rare), transfer to a platter and garnish with thin strips of lemon peel and a scattering of capers.

Estimated Calories

450 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 30 minutes to prepare the ingredients and marinate the venison overnight for best flavor. Cooking in the oven takes around 1.5 hours. Each serving has about 450 calories, and this recipe makes 8 servings.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.