Ragu Von Hirschlosern, Läufen Und Grasern
"Ragout Of Deer Ears, Legs, And Gristle"
From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Ragu Von Hirschlosern, Läufen Und Grasern
"Die abgebrühten und rein geputzten Ohren und Läufer, die Zunge und das Maul werden, und zwar erstere recht klein nudelförmig, letztere gröblich blättlich zusammengeschnitten. Man röste dann etwas Mehl in reinem Fette braun, gebe klein gehackte Zwiebeln, nebst dem Geschnittenen dazu, und gieße, nachdem es etwas gedünstet, recht gute Fleischbrühe darauf. Beim Anrichten wird etwas Citronensaft daran gedrückt. Man kann es auch mit Wein oder Essig säuerlich machen, Korinthen, Gewürznelken und Lorbeerblätter dazu geben, und es damit aufkochen lassen. Auch kann man statt des Mehls in Butter geröstete Semmelbröseln nehmen."
English Translation
"The scalded and thoroughly cleaned ears and legs, the tongue and the mouth, should first be cut, the former very small in noodle-like strips, the latter in coarser slices. Then brown some flour in pure fat, add finely chopped onions along with the sliced meat, and after it has been sautéed a little, pour in good meat broth. When serving, squeeze in some lemon juice. You can also make it slightly sour with wine or vinegar, add currants, cloves, and bay leaves, and let it boil together. Instead of flour, you may use breadcrumbs browned in butter."
Note on the Original Text
Like many recipes of its age, the original is concise and expects a practiced hand: ingredient amounts are unstated, and only the outlines of the method are shared. The recipe mixes older culinary terms (e.g., 'Läufer' for legs/trotters) and spelling variations ('Citronensaft' for lemon juice), reflecting German orthography before late-19th-century reforms. Instructions prioritize the order and type of cut for each meat part, using familiar culinary shorthand understandable to contemporaries, and then invite the cook to season and finish to taste—hallmarks of the era’s practical, hands-on kitchen wisdom.
Title
Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen
Era
1850
Publisher
Dirnböck
Background
A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.
Kindly made available by
Wien Bibliothek
This recipe is a delightful example of mid-19th century Central European nose-to-tail cooking, originating in Austria. It was published in 1850 by Marianka, the dedicated cook to Hans-Jörgel of Gumpoldskirchen, a region renowned for its winemaking just south of Vienna. Her cookbook was written as both an elegant guide for refined entertainments and a practical manual for home cooks facing economic challenges. During these times, costly cuts of venison were reserved for the wealthy, yet every part was prized in the kitchen. Resourceful cooks transformed what today might be considered 'off-cuts'—ears, tongues, trotters—into rich, warming ragouts that made impressive use of available bounty. The recipe beautifully showcases flavors both rustic and refined, with options for bright acidity, spice, and the subtle sweetness of currants.
In 1850, Marianka would have used a heavy iron or copper stewpot heated over a wood-fired hearth or stove. Cleaning and parboiling of offal would have been done in large, wide basins, with all chopping performed on wooden boards by sharp chef knives. Measuring was done by eye or with household spoons, and bread crumbs were grated from stale loaves and toasted in a skillet over the fire. Wooden spoons, skimmers, and earthenware bowls would be at hand for stirring and serving.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2 deer ears (or substitute with pork ears, cleaned and scalded)
- 2 deer legs/trotters (or pork/beef trotters, cleaned and scalded)
- 1 deer tongue (beef or pork tongue can substitute)
- 1 deer snout (pork snout as a substitute)
- 1 large onion (about 5 ounces), finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) clarified butter or animal fat
- 1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) wheat flour OR 2 tablespoons (7/8 ounce) breadcrumbs toasted in butter
- 2 cups beef or venison broth
- 2–3 teaspoons lemon juice OR 1/4 cup dry red wine OR 1 tablespoon (1/2 fluid ounce) vinegar
- 2/3 ounce currants
- 2–3 whole cloves
- 1–2 bay leaves
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Instructions
- Begin by thoroughly cleaning and scalding 2 deer ears, 2 lower legs (trotters), 1 deer tongue, and 1 deer snout.
- Once cleaned, slice the ears and trotters very thinly into noodle-like strips, while the tongue and snout are cut into larger leaf-shaped slices.
- In a heavy saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons (about 1 ounce) of clarified butter or pure animal fat.
- Add 1 tablespoon (about 1/2 ounce) of wheat flour and cook, stirring, until the flour turns a rich brown.
- Add 1 finely chopped large onion and all prepared deer pieces.
- Sauté until the onion is soft and the meats begin to take on a little color.
- Pour in 2 cups of good beef or venison stock, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook until all components are tender—usually 1–2 hours.
- When ready to serve, adjust seasoning with freshly squeezed lemon juice (2–3 teaspoons), or if preferred, add 1/4 cup of dry red wine or 1 tablespoon (1/2 fluid ounce) of vinegar for a tangy flavor.
- For a touch of sweetness and spice, stir in 2/3 ounce of currants, 2–3 cloves, and 1–2 bay leaves, allowing the flavors to infuse as the ragu gently bubbles for a final 10 minutes.
- Optionally, instead of flour, you may use 2 tablespoons (about 7/8 ounce) of breadcrumbs toasted in butter as a thickening agent.
Estimated Calories
350 per serving
Cooking Estimates
Preparing this dish takes about 30 minutes, as you need to clean and cut the meats and chop the onion. Cooking time is around 1.5 hours to make sure the meats are tender and flavors come together. Each serving has about 350 calories because of the mix of lean meats and a little fat. This recipe serves 4 people.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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