Recipe Manuscript

Gebeizter Kalbsschlegel

Name: Gebeizter Kalbsschlegel
Prep time: PTPT45M
Cook time: PTPT2H30M
Yield: 8
Cuisine: European
Ingredients: 1.5–2 kg veal leg (Schlegel); 20 g salt; 2 tbsp crushed pickling spices (juniper berries, peppercorns, bay leaf, coriander seed as substitute for Beizkräutel); Zest of 1–2 lemons (Limonienschalen); 2 tbsp finely chopped cranberries (Kranabetbeeren; use dried cranberries if not available); 250 ml vinegar (white or red wine vinegar); 250 ml dry white wine; 250 ml water; 2 medium onions, halved and studded with 6–8 whole cloves each; 1 cooked, mildly smoked beef tongue (about 300–400 g; substitute smoked ham if desired); 100 g thick-cut bacon; 200 ml double cream (Rahm); 2 tbsp butter; 2 tbsp flour; 3–4 anchovy fillets, mashed; 2 tbsp capers; Additional capers and lemon zest for garnish

"Marinated Veal Leg"

1850

From the treasured pages of Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Written by Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)European Advanced Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1850

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Gebeizter Kalbsschlegel

"Man klopft den Schlegel, salzt ihn, reibt ihn mit gestoßenem Beizkräutel, klein geschnittenen Limonienschalen und Kranabetbeeren gut ein, läßt ihn 1 oder 2 Stunden in Salz stehen; macht eine Beiz darüber von Essig, Wein, Wasser und Zwiebelhappel mit Gewürznelken besteckt, brennt den Schlegel damit ab, und läßt ihn 1 oder 2 Tage beizen; dann schneidet man das Häutige davon weg, spickt ihn mit einer gesottenen geselchten Zunge schön durch, oder auch mit ein wenig groß geschnittenen Speck; bratet ihn, begießt ihn öfters mit Beiz und Rahm, und macht dazu eine Sos aus einer lichten Einbrenn mit ausgelösten Sardellen, Kapri, etwas Rahm und Beiz, und gibt solche in einer Schale zu dem mit Kapri und Limonienschalen zierlich bestreuten Braten."

English Translation

"Pound the leg, salt it, rub it well with crushed pickling herbs, finely chopped lemon peel, and cranberries, and let it stand in the salt for 1 or 2 hours; make a marinade from vinegar, wine, water, and onion pieces studded with cloves, pour it over the leg, and let it marinate for 1 or 2 days; then remove the membranes, lard it nicely with cooked smoked tongue, or with some large pieces of bacon; roast it, basting it frequently with marinade and cream, and make a sauce from a light roux with mashed anchovies, capers, some cream and marinade, and serve it in a dish with the roast, which is decoratively sprinkled with capers and lemon peel."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in the characteristic narrative form of 19th-century cookbooks: it assumes the reader has both time and experience in the kitchen, giving directions without precise timings, temperatures, or weights for many steps. Measurements are either left vague or based on familiar household objects. Spelling and terminology are archaic (e.g., 'gesottene geselchte Zunge' for cooked, smoked tongue, and 'Einbrenn' for a light roux). Additionally, ingredient names such as 'Beizkräutel' and 'Kranabetbeeren' may be unfamiliar; more accessible modern equivalents are suggested in the metric ingredient list.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Der Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen (1850)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Marianka, Mundköchin des Hans-Jörgel von Gumpoldskirchen

Era

1850

Publisher

Dirnböck

Background

A delightful 19th-century cookbook that serves up refined banquets and hearty Austrian and Bohemian fare alike, all tested by the experienced hand of Marianka. It promises elegance for noble tables and affordable, tasty household cooking even in lean times—an inspiring blend of culinary sophistication and practical home kitchen wisdom.

Kindly made available by

Wien Bibliothek

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe comes from the mid-19th century, specifically from the 1850 Viennese cookbook written by Marianka, the private cook to Hans-Jörgel of Gumpoldskirchen. It is a shining example of the elaborate and cosmopolitan dishes prepared for more affluent households during a period when Austrian and Bohemian culinary traditions were merging with French influences. The practice of marinating ('beizen') and spicing meats reflected both preservation needs and a growing love of complex, aromatic flavors in Viennese cuisine. The inclusion of luxury ingredients such as wine, capers, anchovies, and cream speaks to the aspirations of upper-middle-class households in Austria, keen to impress their guests at the table.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In the mid-1800s, the kitchen would have featured robust wooden meat mallets for tenderizing, large ceramic or enamel vessels for marinating—the so-called 'Beiz', iron or brass roasting pans for oven cooking, larding needles to insert strips of tongue and bacon, sharp knives, and open fires or early wood-fired ovens. Basting was done with large metal spoons or simple ladles, and sauces were prepared in heavy-bottomed pots, stirred with wooden paddles. Sauce sieves or cloths would be used for straining, and garnishes were prepared with small zesting knives.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

45 mins

Cook Time

2 hrs 30 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

3.3–4.4 lb veal leg (Schlegel)
0.7 oz salt
2 tbsp crushed pickling spices (juniper berries, peppercorns, bay leaf, coriander seed as substitute for Beizkräutel)
Zest of 1–2 lemons (Limonienschalen)
2 tbsp finely chopped cranberries (Kranabetbeeren; use dried cranberries if not available)
1 cup vinegar (white or red wine vinegar)
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup water
2 medium onions, halved and studded with 6–8 whole cloves each
1 cooked, mildly smoked beef tongue (about 10.5–14 oz; substitute smoked ham if desired)
3.5 oz thick-cut bacon
7 fl oz double cream (Rahm)
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp flour
3–4 anchovy fillets, mashed
2 tbsp capers
Additional capers and lemon zest for garnish

Instructions

Begin by taking approximately 3.3–4.4 lb of veal leg and tenderize it gently with a meat mallet.
Generously salt the meat, then rub it thoroughly with about 2 tablespoons of crushed pickling spices (substitute a mixture of juniper berries, peppercorns, bay leaf, and coriander seed if a ready-made 'Beizkräutel' is unavailable).
Add the grated zest of 1–2 lemons and 2 tablespoons of finely chopped cranberries (dried cranberries may be used if fresh are not available).
Let the meat rest, covered, for 1–2 hours to absorb the salt.
Prepare a marinade by combining 1 cup red or white wine vinegar, 1 cup dry white wine, 1 cup water, and 2 medium onions, halved and stuck with 6–8 whole cloves each.
Bring the marinade to a boil, then pour it over the veal to blanch it.
Cool, then let the veal marinate in this mixture for 24–48 hours in the refrigerator, turning occasionally.
Remove the veal and slice away most of the membrane.
Prepare 1 cooked and mildly smoked beef tongue (or use ham if tongue is not available), cutting it into strips, and insert these strips along with 3.5 oz thick-cut bacon into the veal using a larding needle or with knife pockets.
Roast the veal in a preheated oven at 340°F, basting frequently with the strained marinade and 7 fl oz double cream.
For the sauce, make a light roux with 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons flour.
Stir in 3–4 mashed anchovy fillets, 2 tablespoons capers, 3.5 fl oz cream, and enough of the strained marinade (about 3.5–7 fl oz) to make a smooth sauce.
Serve the veal thinly sliced, topped with sauce, and sprinkled with additional capers and lemon zest.

Estimated Calories

580 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes around 45 minutes to prepare the ingredients, rub the veal, and assemble the marinade. The cook time includes about 2.5 hours of actual roasting and making the sauce. Marinating adds extra waiting time, but the hands-on work is much shorter. This recipe serves about 8 people, and each serving has around 580 calories.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.