To Make Broken Curd Cheese
From the treasured pages of Various Cookeries
Unknown Author
To Make Broken Curd Cheese
"Take your Milk & put Rennet to it as for Newmilk cheese, & when tis come, break it Down, then take all the Whey from the Curds, then put the Curds into a Cheesefatt & let 'em stand without Doing any thing to 'em; Next morning or when you think you've milk enough to fill the Cheesefatt; then put Rennet to it as before. When 'tis come take most of the Whey from it; then break the Curds you set by as small as you can, then put 'em to your New Curds & mix 'em very well together then press 'em down, with your hands & take the Whey clean from 'em, then put your Curds into your Cheesefatt make it up as you would do a new milk Cheese!"
Note on the Original Text
Recipes of this era use conversational, step-by-step instructions based on practice rather than strict measurement. Quantities are rarely specified, as these were understood within the domestic context and varied by household need and available milk. Spelling and grammar reflect late Elizabethan and early Stuart English, with terms like 'cheesefatt' (cheese mold) and verbs such as 'come' (set or coagulate). The instructions are direct, focusing on method rather than precise formula, with an assumption of basic cheesemaking knowledge.
Title
Various Cookeries (1690)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Unknown
Era
1690
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century kitchens, this book brims with recipes, methods, and culinary wisdom passed down through generations, capturing the essence of historical gastronomy.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe, dating from the late 1600s, reflects the resourcefulness of early modern English households in dairy-rich regions. Cheesemaking was both a daily necessity and a way to preserve milk that otherwise would spoil. The method here—mixing new curds with a previous batch—shows how makers maximized yield in times of irregular milk supply, likely in small rural dairies. Such recipes offer insight into seasonal rhythms and domestic economies, as cheese was often made in tandem with daily chores and dictated by the availability of fresh milk. The cheese produced would have been a soft, fresh variety, akin to modern farmer’s cheese, enjoyed within a few days.
The cheesemaker would have used a large cauldron or pot for heating and curdling milk. Curds were broken up with a flat wooden spoon or a simple slotted ladle. Draining was accomplished using woven cloths (such as fine linen or muslin) and a cheesefatt—a perforated wooden or pottery mold to shape and drain the cheese. Pressing was manual, using clean hands or occasionally weights, and all equipment would have been thoroughly scrubbed, as cleanliness was key even in the 17th century.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4 quarts whole milk (divided into two batches of 2 quarts each)
- Liquid rennet (modern vegetarian or animal-based, as available; amount as per manufacturer, e.g., 2-3 drops per quart of milk)
- Salt (optional, for seasoning; not specified in original, but usually added to taste in cheese making)
Instructions
- Begin with 2 quarts of whole milk, heated gently to about 86°F.
- Add liquid rennet (as per product instructions, typically a few drops) to set the milk, just as you would for traditional fresh cheese.
- Once the milk has coagulated, break the curds gently with a slotted spoon and let the whey separate.
- Drain off most of the whey, reserve the curds, and place them in a cheese mold (cheesefatt) or a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth.
- Leave the curds untouched until the next batch of milk is ready.
- When you've accumulated enough curds to fill your mold—perhaps after another milking—repeat the process: set another 2 quarts of milk with rennet, allow to set, and remove most of the whey.
- Take the reserved curds from the previous batch and break them up finely before mixing thoroughly with the fresh curds.
- Press the mixture gently with your hands to expel as much whey as possible, then return to the cheese mold.
- Press lightly, and let the cheese drain and set as you would with a fresh farmer's cheese.
Estimated Calories
140 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend time heating the milk, adding rennet, waiting for the curds to set, draining, and pressing the cheese. The prep time covers getting everything ready and heating the milk. There is minimal active cooking, as most of the time is waiting for the milk to set and the cheese to drain. This recipe makes enough cheese for about 8 servings, and each serving has roughly 140 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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