To Roaste A Shoulder Of Mutton
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading
Written by Ann Smith
To Roaste A Shoulder Of Mutton
"Take a Shoulder of Mutton & slit it & Cutt Holes in the Thickest parts of it Stuff them with Oysters then Lay it to the fier against a Dish under it when it begins to fall put a Quart of Dish under it with Clarritt & a few Capers & a whole Onion & Salt it frequently and Throw on a Little Salt on it & Takeing of it of with your Clarritt Capers & Mutton sliced some nutmeg Thinn & throw in it A little Orange peel Cutt small & Lay on it a few sliceds of Lemon & Serve it hot."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe, like many from its time, is written in a flowing narrative without set ingredient amounts or precise timings, expecting the cook to rely on experience and intuition. Terms like 'claret' refer to a style of red wine popular in England, while 'takeing of it of' means to remove from the fire. Spelling and grammar are irregular, reflecting the conventions of 17th-century English, and punctuation is sparse or absent. Instructions often combine steps—marination, basting, and saucing—without clear separations, demanding a keen eye and judgment from the cook.
Title
Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading (1698)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Smith
Era
1698
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the sumptuous kitchens of 17th-century England with Ann Smith’s culinary treasury, where traditional recipes and time-honored techniques invite you to savor the flavors of history. Each page promises a feast of inspiration and a glimpse into the artful dining of a bygone era.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from Ann Smith, written in 1698, a period when English home cooks drew inspiration from both domestic and continental culinary traditions. The combination of oysters, mutton, wine, and capers reflects the upper-class taste for opulent roasts embellished with imported and coastal ingredients, suitable for elaborate feasts. The inclusion of citrus, capers, and wine also hints at the growing influence of French cuisine in Britain at the end of the seventeenth century. Such recipes would likely have appeared in handwritten manuscript collections rather than printed cookbooks, making them prized heirs of family tradition and social aspiration.
In the late 17th century, the mutton shoulder would be roasted before an open hearth on a spit, turned by hand or a mechanical jack, with a dripping pan below to catch the juices. Cooks used sharp knives to pierce and stuff the meat and employed earthenware or metal pans beneath the roast to prepare the sauce. Cooking was done over wood or coal fires, with roasting and frequent basting done manually. Sauces would be finished by hand, sometimes grated with a nutmeg grater, and the finished dish served on large pewter or ceramic platters.
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs
Servings
8
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4.5 lbs shoulder of mutton (or lamb as substitute)
- 7 oz oysters, shucked (or equivalent amount of mussels as substitute)
- 1 quart red wine (dry claret-style)
- 2 tablespoons capers
- 1 whole onion, peeled
- Salt, to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
- 1 teaspoon orange peel, finely chopped
- 1 lemon, thinly sliced
Instructions
- Begin by taking a whole shoulder of mutton, about 4.5 lbs.
- With a sharp knife, make deep slits or holes in the thickest parts of the meat.
- Stuff these holes with about 7 oz of fresh oysters (or mussels if oysters are unavailable).
- Place the mutton on a roasting rack above a baking dish.
- Once the meat starts to drip fat into the tray, pour about 1 quart of red wine (a robust dry style akin to claret) into the dish below.
- Add 2 tablespoons of capers, one whole peeled onion, and sprinkle a generous amount of salt over the meat and into the wine.
- Roast in a preheated oven at 350°F, basting the mutton regularly with the wine and juices that collect below.
- When the mutton is cooked and golden (about 1.5-2 hours), remove it from the oven.
- For the sauce, slice off some of the roasted mutton and combine it with the wine, capers, and onion from the roasting pan.
- Grate a small amount (about 1/2 teaspoon) of nutmeg over the mixture, add 1 teaspoon of finely chopped orange peel, and lay a few thin slices of fresh lemon over the dish.
- Serve hot, pouring the sauce over the carved roast.
Estimated Calories
520 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 30 minutes to prepare the mutton and ingredients, and around 2 hours to roast. The whole shoulder serves about 8 people. Each serving has about 520 calories, though this can vary depending on serving size and exact ingredients used.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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