To Make Nourishing Papp

This recipe comes from Ann Smith in 1698, a time in late 17th-century England when household handwritten recipe books flourished among literate women. Food was both a comfort and a medicine; nourishing porridge-like dishes such as this were prized for their restorative powers. Ale was safer than water and regarded as nutritious, while oats and butter were hearty staples. The addition of sugar and exotic spices reveals both aspiration and the influence of global trade—the everyday and the luxurious in one humble breakfast pot. 'Papp' was intended for fortification; in an era where body fat was associated with health and wellbeing, a 'very nourishing' papp promised robust good health and, as Ann Smith wryly notes, 'will make you very fat quickly.'

In the 17th century, this recipe would have been made in a large earthenware or iron pot over an open hearth fire. Oatmeal was likely ground fresh, and straining was done with linen cloths or fine sieves. Stirring instruments would have included sturdy wooden spoons or paddles, and ingredients measured by eye or using spoons and cups at hand. The finished papp was served in bowls or deep dishes, eaten with wooden or pewter spoons.