Sopa De Papa
"Potato Soup"
From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 6
Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Sopa De Papa
"Se ponen á cocer las papas como para puré, es decir, se limpian en crudo y se echan en agua fria con una poca de sal y se ponen hervir hasta que están cocidas; entónces se les escurre el agua y se tapa la boca de la olla con un trapo doblado y bien limpio y se pone al vapor de otra olla, sacudiéndola de cuando en cuando hasta que revienten las papas, entónces se desbaratan muy bien con un molinillo; se pone una cazuela en la lumbre con una poca de manteca y así que está derretida se le agrega un trozo de mantequilla, se pica bastante cebolla y se frie en la mantequilla hasta que tiene color de almendra; entónces se echan las papas ya desbaratadas y el caldo del puchero ó de huesos que se haya puesto para la sopa; se sazona con sal pimienta menuda y nuez moscada en polvo; el pan se corta en trocitos y se frie en manteca; no se pone en el caldillo hasta que se vá á mandar á la mesa pasando antes el caldo por un tamiz y cuidando que esté muy caliente."
English Translation
"Boil the potatoes as if for mashed potatoes, that is, clean them raw and put them in cold water with a little salt and bring to a boil until cooked; then drain the water and cover the pot with a clean folded cloth and place it over the steam from another pot, shaking it from time to time until the potatoes burst. Then, mash them well with a whisk; put a clay pot on the stove with a little lard, and when it is melted add a piece of butter. Chop plenty of onion and fry it in the butter until it is almond-colored; then add the mashed potatoes and the broth from a stew or any bone broth you have prepared for the soup. Season with fine salt, ground pepper, and ground nutmeg. Cut bread into small pieces and fry them in lard. Do not add it to the broth until you are about to serve it at the table, first passing the broth through a strainer and making sure it is very hot."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is presented in a flowing, narrative style common to 19th-century cookbooks—each step piggybacks on the last, requiring the reader to have some kitchen intuition. Ingredient amounts are assumed rather than explicitly measured, and modern time cues are absent—relying rather on visual descriptions (‘almond-colored’ onions, potatoes that ‘reventar’ or burst). Names and spellings, such as 'papa' for potato, reflect Mexican Spanish usage of the era. The technical focus is on simplicity and adaptability, trusting the cook’s judgment throughout the process.
Title
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 6 (1890)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Antonio Vanegas Arroyo
Era
1890
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A delightful pocket-sized volume from the famed Cocina en el bolsillo series, offering an array of tempting recipes for every occasion—a true culinary companion for the creative home cook of yesteryear.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe comes from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 6', published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo. The book was part of a popular series aimed at making home cooking accessible to the Mexican public in the late 19th century, containing practical recipes that reflect both Spanish colonial influence and local adaptations. At the time, cookbooks like this were cherished household companions, providing clear guidance for cooks of various skill levels. The use of lard and simple tools, as well as instructions for making the most of household leftovers and broths, mirror a culinary culture rooted in thrift, resourcefulness, and bold, comforting flavors.
Back in 1890, the cook would have used a heavy clay or iron pot for boiling and steaming the potatoes, often heated over a wood or charcoal fire. A cloth (often linen or cotton) acted as a makeshift lid for trapping steam. A traditional molinillo (wooden whisk) was used for mashing the potatoes, highlighting the hands-on nature of historical kitchens. Frying pans or cazuelas (clay casseroles) were essential for sautéing onions and frying bread, usually with locally rendered pork lard.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
40 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 2.2 lbs potatoes
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons pork lard (or vegetable shortening as substitute)
- 1 tablespoon butter
- 1 large onion
- 5 cups beef or bone broth
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 3.5 oz crusty bread
- 1 tablespoon lard (for frying bread)
Instructions
- Begin by peeling about 2.2 lbs of potatoes and place them in a pot with cold water and 1 teaspoon of salt.
- Bring to a boil and cook until the potatoes are very tender.
- Drain the water, then cover the pot with a clean, folded kitchen towel and let the potatoes sit over the steam of another pot, shaking occasionally until they are fluffy and begin to break apart.
- Mash the potatoes thoroughly with a whisk or potato masher.
- In a saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons of pork lard over medium heat, then add 1 tablespoon of butter.
- Finely chop 1 large onion and sauté it in the fat mixture until golden brown, reminiscent of almonds.
- Add the mashed potatoes to the pan, then pour in 5 cups of hot beef or bone broth.
- Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a pinch of ground nutmeg.
- Stir well and simmer gently.
- Meanwhile, cut 3.5 oz of crusty bread into cubes and fry them in 1 tablespoon of lard until golden brown.
- Just before serving, strain the soup through a fine sieve into serving bowls.
- Garnish each bowl with the hot fried bread croutons, ensuring the soup is served piping hot.
Estimated Calories
300 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 20 minutes to prepare the ingredients and about 40 minutes to cook the soup. Each serving has around 300 calories, and the recipe makes 6 servings.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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