Recipe Manuscript

Chiles Rellenos

"Chiles Rellenos"

1890

From the treasured pages of La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5

Written by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Chiles Rellenos
Original Recipe • 1890
Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Chiles Rellenos

"Se asan los chiles cuaresmeros ó tornachiles, después de desvenados: se desholléjan y en seguida se rellenan con lo siguiente: se raya queso Gruyere, se pica muy menudo cebolla y se frie sacándola de la manteca: se cuecen papas al vapor y cuando estén se desvaratan, mezclándoles la cebolla, el queso y un poco de sal; se revuelve todo esto y con ello se rellenan los chiles; se revuelcan en harina y luego se cubren con huevo batido como es costumbre, friéndolos en seguida. Se hace la especie según el método común y allí se echan los chiles á que den un hervor."

English Translation

"Roast the cuaresmeño or tornachiles peppers, and after removing the veins, peel off their skins and then stuff them with the following: grate Gruyere cheese, chop onion very finely and fry it, then remove it from the butter. Boil potatoes with steam, and when they are done, mash them and mix in the onion, cheese, and a bit of salt; stir everything together and use this mixture to fill the chiles. Dredge them in flour and then cover them with beaten egg as usual, then fry them. Prepare a sauce with the common method and place the chiles in it so they can simmer for a moment."

Note on the Original Text

The recipe is written in a conversational, flowing style, characteristic of 19th-century Mexican domestic cookbooks. Quantities are often approximate or omitted, relying on the cook’s intuition and experience. The language uses terms like 'especie' for the classic tomato-based sauce, and the older spelling forms (such as 'desholléjan' for peel, 'desvaratan' for mash) reflect regional Spanish and orthography of the time. Despite its brevity, the instructions are sequential and practical, intended for home cooks well versed in daily kitchen techniques. The lack of exact measurements places trust in the cook’s judgment—a sign of the era’s reliance on hands-on familiarity with ingredients and processes.

Recipe's Origin
La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5 (1890)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Antonio Vanegas Arroyo

Era

1890

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful volume from the famed series 'Cocina en el bolsillo,' this pocket-sized cookbook serves up an enticing collection of recipes, guiding readers through a flavorful journey of culinary creations from the late 19th century.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe originates from 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo No. 5,' published in 1890 by Antonio Vanegas Arroyo in Mexico City. At the turn of the 20th century, Mexico’s culinary scene was thriving with European influences, especially evident in the use of Gruyère cheese in this recipe—a product popularized by international trade and the French presence in Mexico during the late 19th century. 'La Cocina en el Bolsillo' was a popular series of pocket cookbooks, intended for home cooks eager to recreate hearty, everyday Mexican fare. The inclusion of native chiles and local papas (potatoes) with imported cheese beautifully illustrates the cultural blend characteristic of Mexican cuisine during this era.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

In 1890s Mexico, home kitchens were generally equipped with a fogón (wood- or charcoal-fired stove), comal (griddle) for roasting chiles, and simple hand tools: clay or metal pots for boiling potatoes, molcajete for grinding if making sauces, sharp knives for peeling and chopping, and wooden spoons. Eggs would be beaten by hand with a fork or wire whisk, and frying was done in a heavy earthenware cazuela or cast-iron pan over an open flame. Chiles would be roasted directly on the comal or over an open flame, peeled by hand, and stuffed using simple utensils—no special gadgets beyond kitchen basics!

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

30 mins

Cook Time

40 mins

Servings

6

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 6 fresh poblano peppers (approx. 4.25 oz each, substitute Anaheim or similar if needed)
  • 2 medium potatoes (10.5 oz)
  • 1 small onion (3.5 oz)
  • 3.5 oz Gruyère cheese (substitute Swiss cheese if Gruyère unavailable)
  • 1 tablespoon (0.5 oz) unsalted butter
  • 2 eggs
  • All-purpose flour for dredging (about 1 oz)
  • Vegetable oil or lard for frying (7 fl oz or enough for shallow frying)
  • Salt, to taste
  • Tomato sauce or basic 'especie' (about 2 cups) for simmering

Instructions

  1. Begin by roasting 6 fresh poblano peppers (chiles cuaresmeños or tornachiles), turning until their skins blister and blacken.
  2. Place the roasted peppers in a covered bowl to steam for 10 minutes, then peel off the charred skin, slit down one side, and carefully remove seeds and veins.
  3. Meanwhile, boil 2 medium potatoes (about 10.5 oz) until tender, then mash them while still warm.
  4. Finely chop 1 small onion (about 3.5 oz) and sauté in 1 tablespoon (0.5 oz) unsalted butter until translucent.
  5. Combine the mashed potatoes, sautéed onion, 3.5 oz grated Gruyère cheese (or substitute Swiss cheese), and salt to taste in a bowl.
  6. Mix well.
  7. Stuff each prepared chile with this filling.
  8. Dredge each stuffed chile lightly in flour.
  9. Separate 2 eggs, whip the whites to stiff peaks, then gently fold in the yolks.
  10. Dip the floured chiles in the beaten egg, coating them completely.
  11. Fry the chiles in 0.5–0.75 inch deep hot oil or lard until golden on both sides.
  12. Once cooked, place the chiles in a warmed tomato-based sauce ('especie', such as a classic tomato broth with spices) and simmer briefly before serving.

Estimated Calories

320 per serving

Cooking Estimates

We roast and peel the peppers, boil and mash the potatoes, sauté the onions, prepare the filling, stuff the peppers, dredge, batter, and fry them, and finally simmer in tomato sauce. The times reflect how long these steps take. Each serving gives you one stuffed pepper with cheese and potato filling, and the calorie estimate is for a single stuffed pepper.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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