Recipe Manuscript

Jamon En Vino Á La Francesa

Name: Jamon En Vino Á La Francesa
Prep time: PTPT20M
Cook time: PTPT2H30M
Yield: 10
Cuisine: American
Ingredients: 2-2.5 kg whole cooked or cured ham; 3 L cold water (for soaking); 1.5 L dry white wine; 1.5 L water; 2-3 carrots, peeled and sliced; 2 onions, peeled and quartered; 4-6 whole cloves; 2-3 bay leaves; 3-4 sprigs fresh thyme; 3-4 sprigs fresh parsley; Mixed fresh herbs (tarragon, chervil, or substitute with Italian parsley); 50 g pork fat (or unsalted butter); 50 g fine fresh breadcrumbs

"Ham In Wine, French Style"

1831

From the treasured pages of El Cocinero Mexicano, Vol. 2

Written by Mariano Arevalo; Mariano Galvan Rivera

Age of Gastronomy (1800 - 1900)American European Intermediate Dinner Lunch

Original Recipe • 1831

Original Manuscript(circa Age of Gastronomy, 1800 - 1900)

As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

Jamon En Vino Á La Francesa

"28. Despues de haberle quitado todo el contorno y lo que amarilléa porque se vaya arrancando, se redeja en agua fria por dos ó tres dias: se deja escurrir, y despues de haberlo enjugado bien, se pone á cocer en una olla con un lienzo blanco envuelto en partes iguales de vino y agua con zanahorias, cebollas, tomillo, laurel, clavo y un manojito de yerbas finas. Se conoce que está bien cocido, si se puede atravesar fácilmente con una aguja de mechar. Despues de cocido se le quita el hueso de en medio, y estando enteramente frio, se le levanta la cubierta que se le vuelve á cubrir con grasa, raspadura de pan y yerbas finas."

English Translation

"28. After having removed all the outer layer and anything yellowing because it is coming off, it is left in cold water for two or three days: then it is drained, and after being well dried, it is put to cook in a pot, wrapped in a white cloth, in equal parts of wine and water with carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaf, cloves, and a small bundle of fine herbs. It is known to be well cooked if it can easily be pierced with a larding needle. After cooking, the bone in the middle is removed, and when it is completely cold, the outer covering is lifted and it is covered again with fat, breadcrumbs, and fine herbs."

Note on the Original Text

The original recipe is composed in the formal and instructional Spanish of the early 19th century, with long sentences and a stepwise logic rather than list-style directions. Ingredients and methods are woven into the text itself, expecting cooks to read and interpret as they go. Words such as 'yerbas finas' (fine herbs) and 'clavo' (clove) are used in their historical spellings, and the instruction to test doneness with a 'aguja de mechar' (larding needle) reflects kitchen practices before the age of timers and thermometers. The method is precise in its attention to preparation and presentation, echoing both French and traditional Mexican habits.

Modern Kitchen Interpretation

Recipe's Origin

El Cocinero Mexicano, Vol. 2 - Click to view recipe in book

Title

El Cocinero Mexicano, Vol. 2 (1831)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Mariano Arevalo; Mariano Galvan Rivera

Era

1831

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful foray into 19th-century Mexican kitchens, this volume serves up an appetizing array of recipes blending traditional Mexican flair with American culinary influences—a true feast for the adventurous palate.

Kindly made available by

University of Texas at San Antonio

Historical Background of the Recipe

Learn about old traditions

This recipe is drawn from 'El Cocinero Mexicano' published in 1831, a classic Mexican cookbook that demonstrates how international influences—particularly French—were woven into Mexican cuisine during the 19th century. Dishes like this, labeled 'à la francesa,' reveal both elite tastes and a cosmopolitan curiosity in urban Mexican society at the time. Infusions of European technique and ingredients, such as wine-based poaching and the use of mixed herbs, demonstrate evolving culinary practices in the young Mexican Republic after independence. The recipe shows a balance between Old World methods and locally available products.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted

Tools and techniques from kitchens of old

In 1831, the ham would have been prepared with a large ceramic or metal cauldron set over a wood or charcoal fire. A sturdy white linen cloth was essential for wrapping the ham to protect it during simmering. Additional tools included sharp knives for trimming, a skewer or long needle to test doneness, and a mortar and pestle for crushing herbs or crumbs. Fine sieves or cloths were also used for straining liquids and drying ingredients before finishing the dish.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation

Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks

ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

2 hrs 30 mins

Servings

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

4 1/2-5 1/2 lbs whole cooked or cured ham
3 quarts cold water (for soaking)
6 1/3 cups dry white wine
6 1/3 cups water
2-3 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 onions, peeled and quartered
4-6 whole cloves
2-3 bay leaves
3-4 sprigs fresh thyme
3-4 sprigs fresh parsley
Mixed fresh herbs (tarragon, chervil, or substitute with Italian parsley)
2 oz pork fat (or unsalted butter)
2 oz fine fresh breadcrumbs

Instructions

Begin by trimming away all discolored or yellowed parts from a cooked or cured ham (about 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 lbs is typical for a family roast).
Soak the ham in cold water for 2-3 days, changing the water daily to remove excessive salt.
Drain and pat the ham dry.
Wrap the ham in a clean white cloth and place it in a large pot.
Add equal parts dry white wine and water (enough to cover the ham, roughly 6 1/3 cups each).
Add 2-3 peeled and sliced carrots, 2 peeled and quartered onions, a few sprigs each of fresh thyme and parsley (or a mixed bundle of 'fine herbs'), 2-3 bay leaves, and 4-6 whole cloves.
Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook on low heat for about 2-3 hours, or until a trussing needle or skewer easily pierces the flesh.
Remove the ham, let it cool, and carefully take out the central bone.
Once completely cold, peel off any skin and brush the outside with melted pork fat (or butter).
Sprinkle liberally with fine breadcrumbs mixed with chopped fresh herbs.
Re-cover the ham and serve at room temperature or gently reheat as desired.

Estimated Calories

350 per serving

Cooking Estimates

This recipe takes some extra time because you soak the ham for a few days, then simmer it gently for a couple of hours with herbs and vegetables. Prep work is simple: trim, soak, and set up your ingredients. Cooking is hands-off, with just a few steps before serving. Each slice is satisfying and not too heavy.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.