Leche De Mantequilla
"Buttermilk"
From the treasured pages of Mexican Cooking Notebook: Manuscript de Manuela
Written by Heredia y Cervantes, Manuela
Leche De Mantequilla
"A 4 cuartillos una y media libra de azucar, 6 yemas de huevo y una raja de vainilla, y dos onzas de mantequilla, se pone a hervir la leche con la azucar, y ya que hirvió un rato largo, se le revuelven las yemas hasta que se le vea el fondo al caso, y ya que se baja se le echa la mantequilla."
English Translation
"To 4 quarts add one and a half pounds of sugar, 6 egg yolks, a stick of vanilla, and two ounces of butter. Boil the milk with the sugar, and after it has boiled for quite a while, stir in the egg yolks until you can see the bottom of the pan. Once it is removed from the heat, add the butter."
Note on the Original Text
The original recipe employs a narrative style, with little explicit measurement beyond general weights and volumes—cuartillos (about 1 liter), libras (approx. 450 g), and onzas (about 28 grams). This was typical for handwritten Mexican cookbooks, where a cook's intuition and familiarity with the ingredients were assumed. Spelling and phrasing reflect 19th-century written Spanish, e.g., 'azucar' (now spelled azúcar) and 'se le echa' (meaning 'add to it'). Directions are compact, expecting the reader to know techniques like tempering yolks or reading the visual cue 'hasta que se le vea el fondo al caso' ('until you can see the bottom of the pot').
Title
Mexican Cooking Notebook: Manuscript de Manuela (1886)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Heredia y Cervantes, Manuela
Era
1886
Publisher
Unknown
Background
A charming 19th-century manuscript brimming with traditional Mexican recipes—think Sopa de chícharos, Relleno de ravioles, Sopa de lentejas, and Pastel de tuétanos—this notebook is a flavorful journey into Mexico’s culinary heritage, crafted by a masterful home cook.
Kindly made available by
University of Texas at San Antonio
This recipe comes from an 1886 Mexican manuscript by Manuela Heredia y Cervantes, a dedicated chronicler of her era's kitchen wisdom. It is an artifact of 19th-century Mexican domestic life, when creamed desserts enlivened special occasions or evening gatherings. Milk-based sweets like 'Leche de Mantequilla' reflect both Spanish culinary influences and the opulent Mexican tradition of rich, comforting desserts. The handwritten recipe notebooks of this period were often passed down through generations, preserving family tastes and regional techniques in a personal, practical form.
Cooks in 1880s Mexico would have used heavy copper or clay pots for slow boiling, a wooden spoon or spatula for constant stirring, and possibly a whisk fashioned from local plant fibers for beating eggs. Cooking was done over open fires or cast-iron stoves, requiring careful attention to avoid scorching the sweet milk. Strainers or cheesecloth were on hand if the custard curdled, and cool ceramic or clay dishes awaited the finished dessert for serving or chilling.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
35 mins
Servings
12
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 gallon plus 3/4 cup whole milk
- 3 cups plus 3 tablespoons sugar (white granulated)
- 6 egg yolks
- 1 whole vanilla bean (or 1–2 tsp vanilla extract as substitute)
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Instructions
- To prepare 'Leche de Mantequilla' today, begin by bringing 1 gallon plus 3/4 cup of whole milk and 3 cups plus 3 tablespoons of sugar to a gentle boil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot.
- Add 1 whole split vanilla bean or, if unavailable, 1–2 teaspoons of good-quality vanilla extract.
- Allow the mixture to simmer for a while (about 20–25 minutes), stirring occasionally so it doesn't scorch.
- In a separate bowl, whisk 6 egg yolks.
- Once the milk has reduced and thickened slightly, slowly whisk a ladleful of the hot milk into the yolks to temper, then pour this mixture back into the pot.
- Cook gently, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens enough that you can see the bottom of the pot as you stir (nappe consistency).
- Remove from the heat and immediately add 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter, stirring until melted and smooth.
- Let it cool slightly before serving warm, or chill to enjoy cold.
Estimated Calories
320 per serving
Cooking Estimates
It takes about 10 minutes to get your ingredients and workspace ready, and around 35 minutes to cook the custard on the stove. This recipe makes about 12 servings, and each serving has about 320 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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