Recipe Manuscript

How To Make A Pudding Of Pidgeons

1690

From the treasured pages of Various Cookeries

Unknown Author

How To Make A Pudding Of Pidgeons
Original Recipe • 1690
Original Manuscript(circa Renaissance, 1400 - 1700)
As inscribed by the original author's hand, transcribed with care by Lost Kitchen Scrolls

How To Make A Pudding Of Pidgeons

"Take half a Dozen of Pidgeons & pull 'em & Draw 'em & lay the Livers by, & take a Rolling pin & beat 'em down close, & then take the Livers & shred with Mashrooms Anchovies a little parsly, a little Onions, a little Butter & shred 'em very well together, & season it very well & put it in the Bodies, so brown 'em very well, and when they are brown'd rub the Dishes with Garlick & so make a sharp sauce, and so serve it up hot."

Note on the Original Text

Early modern English recipes favored direct, imperative phrasing with minimal measurements, assuming an experienced cook. Spelling was idiosyncratic: 'Butt'r' for butter, 'Mashrooms' for mushrooms, and 'Anchovies' spelled phonetically. Quantities and timings are absent; the cook was expected to adjust based on context and experience. Ingredients lists were integrated into the method, not set apart—a style that modern cookbooks no longer follow.

Recipe's Origin
Various Cookeries - Click to view recipe in book

Title

Various Cookeries (1690)

You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome

Writer

Unknown

Era

1690

Publisher

Unknown

Background

A delightful glimpse into late 17th-century kitchens, this book brims with recipes, methods, and culinary wisdom passed down through generations, capturing the essence of historical gastronomy.

Kindly made available by

Folger Shakespeare Library
Historical Background of the Recipe
Learn about old traditions
Historical kitchen setting

This recipe hails from the late 1600s, an era in England when savory pies and puddings were central to both noble and household feasting. Pigeons were a common source of protein for affluent diners, with 'pudding' referring less to dessert and more to stuffed, encased, or sauced dishes. The combination of mushrooms and anchovies reflects the period's fondness for rich, umami flavors, and the use of garlic, vinegar, and herbs captures the interplay of sharp and earthy tastes in post-medieval British cookery. Such recipes were often shared among the educated elite, preserved in manuscript cookbooks, and the style reveals both an experimental spirit and a delight in bold, robust flavors lost in later restrained English cuisine.

Culinary Tools when the Recipe was Crafted
Tools and techniques from kitchens of old
Historical culinary tools

Cooks of the period used a combination of open fire, cast iron or brass skillets, and heavy wooden rolling pins. A sharp knife would slice the small ingredients; a mortar and pestle might further break down the stuffing mixture. Dishes and serving platters were typically earthenware or pewter, and the garlic-rubbing would have been done with cut cloves against a cool, hard surface. Pans were deglazed over high flame, sometimes by quickly adding vinegar or wine directly into the hot pan.

Modern Kitchen Adaptation
Ingredients and techniques for today's cooks
ounces, cups, Fahrenheit

Prep Time

20 mins

Cook Time

30 mins

Servings

6

We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!

Ingredients

  • 6 pigeons (substitute: 6 young chicken thighs or quail if unavailable)
  • 2 oz fresh mushrooms, finely chopped
  • 2 anchovy fillets, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced
  • 2 tablespoons onion, minced
  • 2 tablespoons (1 oz) unsalted butter
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 2 tablespoons vinegar (wine or cider recommended)
  • 3 tablespoons (1.7 fl oz) chicken or game stock

Instructions

  1. Begin with 6 pigeons, plucked and cleaned, retaining their livers.
  2. Lay the pigeons flat and use a rolling pin to lightly flatten them.
  3. Finely chop the livers, 2 oz of fresh mushrooms, 2 anchovy fillets, 1 tablespoon of fresh parsley, 2 tablespoons of minced onion, and 2 tablespoons (1 oz) of butter.
  4. Mix this stuffing thoroughly and season well with salt and pepper.
  5. Fill each pigeon cavity with the stuffing.
  6. In a heavy skillet with a little butter, brown the pigeons on all sides until well-colored.
  7. While browning, rub the serving dish with a cut clove of garlic.
  8. Prepare a sharp sauce by deglazing the pan with 2 tablespoons of vinegar and a splash of stock, then pour this over the pigeons.
  9. Serve hot.

Estimated Calories

350 per serving

Cooking Estimates

It takes about 20 minutes to prep the ingredients and 30 minutes to cook the pigeons. Each serving has around 350 calories, and this recipe serves 6 people.

As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.

We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.

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