To Rost A Capon Wth Oysters

This recipe hails from the manuscript collection of Elizabeth Fowler, dated 1684. In Restoration-era England, elaborate roasts such as capon with oysters were the centerpiece of wealthy tables, marrying rich poultry with the briny luxury of oysters and the returning popularity of French influences like Claret wine. Oysters were cheap and abundant, prized in both high and middle class kitchens. The use of anchovies hints at the period's growing fascination with bold, umami flavors and imported ingredients. Fowler’s manuscript, like many from the period, is a window into late 17th-century domestic life, showing a blend of robust English fare with a continental twist. The presence of detailed instructions for sauces and garnishes reflects the increasing sophistication of English cookery, while the barberries—bright and tart—echo the visual and gustatory theatricality beloved by Restoration cooks.

Back in 1684, this dish would be prepared over a hearth or open fire, using a spit or rack to roast the capon. Basting was performed by hand with a brush or spoon, and drippings collected in a trencher or shallow pan placed below. Sauces were finished in a small pot set over the coals. A knife was used for trussing, and all work was conducted with simple, sturdy utensils: iron pans, long-handled spoons, roasting spits, and perhaps a frying pan for the oysters. Fine serving dishes showcased the finished roast alongside its colorful garnishes.