To Dress A Iacke Or Pike
From the treasured pages of Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading
Written by Ann Smith

To Dress A Iacke Or Pike
"Take you Iacke or scower off the scals with salt then wash itt & cutt itt in peices as you doe a Cod. & then putt to itt white wine or white wine & vinigar & water a of much salt as will season itt and nut meg slyced a raec of gingir and a Little onion Cutt in peices a good Bay woodd herbs & lett itt stand in the Liquor for 2 or 3 houers befor itt be sottenn fired. then Lett itt boyle: qui & which will be Done in ½ an houer or Lesse: & take some Liquor itt is boyld in & add to itt 2 or 3 Anchoviss & some fresh Butter & with itt thick with a Little Lemon sheedd itt & Both well."
Note on the Original Text
This recipe follows the loose, narrative style typical of early modern English manuscripts: it assumes experienced readers know how to judge quantities and cooking times. Spelling is playful and phonetic ('sotenn fired' means 'set on the fire', 'boyle: qui & which' means 'boil, which will...'), and punctuation is inventive or absent. Clarity relies on familiarity with both ingredients and kitchen methods: terms like 'bay wood herbs' and 'raec of gingir' ('piece of ginger') would have been second nature to the intended readers.

Title
Cookbook of Ann Smith, Reading (1698)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Ann Smith
Era
1698
Publisher
Unknown
Background
Step into the sumptuous kitchens of 17th-century England with Ann Smith’s culinary treasury, where traditional recipes and time-honored techniques invite you to savor the flavors of history. Each page promises a feast of inspiration and a glimpse into the artful dining of a bygone era.
Kindly made available by
Folger Shakespeare Library
This recipe comes from an English kitchen in the late 17th century, a time when elaborate fish dishes graced the tables of both wealthy households and aspiring gentry. Pike was a prized freshwater fish, often sourced from manor house ponds, and recipes like this one demonstrate both the period's love for assertive seasonings and their fascination with sauces and marinades. Cooks like Ann Smith would have cherished such techniques, adding sophistication with wine, vinegar, and a pantry of spices brought in from expanding trade networks. Anchovies, once the preserve of the elite, were becoming a trendy ingredient, lending their savory 'umami' punch even to freshwater fish.

In 1698, cooks employed a simple but effective toolkit: large earthenware or copper pots for boiling and stewing, wooden spoons, knives for scaling and portioning, mortars and pestles for spice grinding, and sieves for straining liquids. Fish would usually be prepared on a solid wooden table, and heat came from an open hearth or a simple range. A ladle or wooden spatula would have been used to handle the delicate fish pieces during cooking.
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
Servings
6
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 1 whole pike (3–4.5 lb), or cod as a substitute
- Coarse sea salt (as needed, about 1.5 tbsp for seasoning and scaling)
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 7 tablespoons white wine vinegar
- 2 cups water
- 1 teaspoon nutmeg (freshly sliced or grated)
- 3/4-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and sliced
- 1 small onion, chopped
- 2–3 bay leaves (or a mix of bay, thyme, parsley for 'bay wood herbs')
- 2–3 anchovy fillets (oil-packed), finely chopped
- 1/4 cup (2 oz) unsalted butter
- Juice from 1 lemon and optional zest
Instructions
- Begin by taking a whole pike (or substitute with cod if pike is unavailable), about 3–4.5 lb.
- Remove the scales by rubbing with coarse sea salt, then rinse thoroughly.
- Cut the fish into serving pieces.
- In a large bowl, combine 1 cup dry white wine, 7 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 2 cups water, and 1.5 tablespoons sea salt (adjust to taste).
- Add 1 teaspoon freshly sliced nutmeg, a 3/4-inch slice of fresh ginger root (peeled and sliced), 1 small onion (chopped), and a couple of bay leaves, thyme, or parsley as the 'bay wood herbs.' Marinate the fish pieces in this mixture for 2–3 hours in the refrigerator.
- After marinating, transfer everything to a pot and bring to a gentle boil.
- Simmer for 20–30 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through but still tender.
- Remove the fish and strain about 1 cup of the poaching liquor into a small saucepan.
- Add 2–3 oil-packed anchovy fillets (finely chopped) and 1/4 cup (2 oz) unsalted butter.
- Heat gently and whisk together.
- To thicken, add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and, if you like, a little lemon zest for brightness.
- Pour this sauce over the fish to serve.
Estimated Calories
330 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will need about 20 minutes to prepare the fish and set up the marinade. Marinating will take 2 to 3 hours in the fridge. Cooking takes about 25 minutes. This dish serves 6 people. Each serving has about 330 calories.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
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