Ovos Com Çumo De Azedas
"Eggs With Sorrel Juice"
From the treasured pages of Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha
Written by Lucas Rigaud
Ovos Com Çumo De Azedas
"Pizados em hum gral dois molhos de folhas de azedas, e espremido o çumo por hum panno dentro de huma cassarola, ajuntem-lhe hum bocado de manteiga lavada pulverizada de farinha, duas gemmas de ovos, pouco sal, noz noscada ralada, ponha-se ao lume, e mexendo com huma colher até estar ligado, e de bom gosto, sirva-se com ovos frescos escalfados em cima."
English Translation
"Crush two bunches of sorrel leaves in a mortar, and squeeze the juice through a cloth into a saucepan. Add a piece of washed butter dusted with flour, two egg yolks, a little salt, grated nutmeg, put it on the heat, and stir with a spoon until it is combined and tastes good. Serve with fresh poached eggs on top."
Note on the Original Text
The recipe is written in an instructive, brisk style typical of 18th-century cookery books, assuming the reader is familiar with kitchen routines and ingredient handling. Quantities are largely described by 'bunch', 'piece', or number, since kitchen scales were rare in domestic settings. Words like 'çumo' (now 'sumo' for juice) and 'hum' (now 'um' for 'one') reflect the orthography of the period. Directions are sequential and concise, with flavourings (nutmeg, salt) added 'a gosto' (to taste), and with an emphasis on achieving the correct consistency rather than precise timings or temperatures.
Title
Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha (1785)
You can also click the book image above to peruse the original tome
Writer
Lucas Rigaud
Era
1785
Publisher
L. da Silva Godinho
Background
A sumptuous journey through 18th-century Portuguese cuisine, 'Cozinheiro moderno, ou nova arte de cozinha' invites readers to master the refined and innovative cookery of its time. Delight in a treasury of recipes and culinary secrets that celebrate the flavors and craftsmanship of Lisbon's gastronomic past.
Kindly made available by
Internet Archive
This recipe comes from 'O Cozinheiro Moderno, ou Nova Arte de Cozinha', published in 1785 in Lisbon by Lucas Rigaud. The book captures the elegance and seasonal inventiveness of late 18th-century Portuguese aristocratic cookery, heavily influenced by both French techniques and local produce. Sorrel was a prized leafy green at the time, valued for its bright, tangy flavor that cut through richer ingredients like butter and eggs. Recipes like this showcase transitional culinary practices, bridging medieval spice use and the emerging refinement of sauces and egg preparations that would later define modern gastronomy.
Back in the 18th century, a sturdy mortar and pestle (gral) would have been used to crush and bruise the sorrel leaves, followed by a fine linen cloth to strain and press out the juice. A shallow brass or copper saucepan (cassarola) would then be used over an open hearth or charcoal brazier. A robust wooden spoon ensured constant stirring, and poached eggs would be gently simmered in a wide pot of water, likely over an adjustable flame, then retrieved with a slotted spoon or ladle.
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
10 mins
Servings
4
We've done our best to adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, but some details may still need refinement. We warmly welcome feedback from fellow cooks and culinary historians — your insights support the entire community!
Ingredients
- 4¼ oz fresh sorrel leaves (substitute: spinach with a dash of lemon if unavailable)
- 1 oz unsalted butter (or clarified butter, if possible)
- 1 teaspoon plain flour (about 0.1 oz)
- 2 egg yolks
- Pinch of salt
- Freshly grated nutmeg (about 1/8 teaspoon)
- 4 fresh eggs (for poaching)
Instructions
- Begin by thoroughly washing two large bunches (about 4¼ oz) of fresh sorrel leaves.
- Using a mortar and pestle, crush the leaves until juicy.
- Strain the resulting pulp through a fine cloth into a small saucepan to extract the bright green sorrel juice.
- Add 1 oz of unsalted butter (preferably clarified or well-washed, as per the tradition) and 1 teaspoon (about 0.1 oz) of plain flour to the pan, mixing to form a smooth paste.
- Put in two egg yolks, a pinch of salt, and a hint of freshly gratid nutmeg.
- Place the saucepan over low heat and, stirring continously with a wooden spoon, gently cook the mixture until it thickens, forming a silky, lightly tangy sauce.
- Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
- Meanwhile, gently poach 4 fresh eggs in simmering water.
- To serve, spoon the warm sorrel sauce onto a serving dish and carefully arrange the poached eggs on top.
Estimated Calories
170 per serving
Cooking Estimates
You will spend about 10 minutes preparing the ingredients and another 10 minutes actually cooking. Each serving has about 170 calories, and this recipe makes 4 servings—perfect for a small group.
As noted above, we have made our best effort to translate and adapt this historical recipe for modern kitchens, taking into account ingredients nowadays, cooking techniques, measurements, and so on. However, historical recipes often contain assumptions that require interpretation.
We'd love for anyone to help improve these adaptations. Community contributions are highly welcome. If you have suggestions, corrections, or cooking tips based on your experience with this recipe, please share them below.
Join the Discussion
Rate This Recipe
Dietary Preference
Main Ingredients
Culinary Technique
Occasions
Den Bockfisch In Einer Fleisch Suppen Zu Kochen
This recipe hails from a German manuscript cookbook compiled in 1696, a time whe...
Die Grieß Nudlen Zumachen
This recipe comes from a rather mysterious manuscript cookbook, penned anonymous...
Ein Boudain
This recipe comes from an anonymous German-language manuscript cookbook from 169...
Ein Gesaltzen Citroni
This recipe, dating from 1696, comes from an extensive anonymous German cookbook...
Browse our complete collection of time-honored recipes